Irish stew: what it is and what to look for

Irish stew is a slow-cooked dish of meat, potato and onion in a light broth, most often made with lamb. It is plain on purpose: there is no thick sauce and not much in the way of spice, so the quality of the meat and the care of the cooking are what you taste. If you want to know whether a kitchen can cook, a bowl of stew is a fair test.

This guide explains what the dish is, how to tell a good one from a thin one and what to ask when you order.

What goes into it

The classic version uses lamb on the bone or in chunks, potatoes, onions and water or stock, cooked slowly until the meat is tender and the potatoes have begun to thicken the liquid. Many cooks add carrot, and some add turnip or herbs such as thyme and parsley. People argue about whether carrot belongs, and a place that includes it is not wrong, just different.

Because the list is short, every part matters. The meat should be properly tender. The potatoes should be soft but not dissolved. The broth should taste of lamb and onion rather than of a stock cube.

What a good bowl looks like

Look at the bowl before you eat. The broth should be lightly cloudy from the potato, with a shine of fat on top, but not greasy. The meat should come away from the bone with a spoon. There should be a mix of whole potato pieces and some that have broken down to thicken the liquid.

A bowl that is thin and clear, with cubes of meat that are tough, usually means a short cook or a lack of care. A bowl that is stiff like porridge has been cooked too far or thickened with flour.

Lamb, mutton or beef

Traditional recipes use lamb or mutton. Mutton is older meat with a stronger flavour. Some places make a beef stew and call it a stew, which is a different dish. If you want the classic, check the menu says lamb. If it does not, ask.

How it is served

Stew is a main course, often with brown bread or soda bread on the side to mop up the broth. Some places serve it with a spoon of mashed potato or cabbage. A good portion fills the bowl, and the bread should be there to be used.

It also suits a cold day. Many kitchens put it on in the colder months and take it off when the weather warms, so do not be surprised if you cannot find it in summer.

Questions to ask before you order

• Is it made with lamb, and is the meat on the bone?
• Is it made in-house?
• Does it contain any wheat flour, if you avoid gluten? Some cooks thicken with flour.
• What does it come with?

Staff at a good place will know the answers.

Finding it on Mosey

Dishes that diners photograph and name on Mosey can have their own page, which shows photographs from separate visits and what the plate looked like. If you are looking for stew, check recent photographs rather than relying on the menu description alone.

Making it at home or ordering out

If you cook, the method is forgiving. Brown nothing, layer the meat and onions with the potatoes, cover with water, and cook gently for a long time. Do not boil hard, or the meat toughens and the broth goes cloudy in the wrong way. If you are eating out, you are paying for that patience, so look for a bowl that tastes as if it has had it.

Leftovers are often better the next day, which is why some places make a large pot and serve it across two days. That is fine, as long as it has been kept and reheated properly. A bowl that tastes flat and a little sour has been kept too long.

Ordering stew with confidence

When the stew arrives, give it a minute. Stir gently and taste the broth before you add salt or pepper, because a good stew is usually seasoned. Take a piece of meat and a piece of potato together, since the dish is meant to be eaten as a combination. If the meat is on the bone, work around it with a spoon and be patient.

Mistakes a kitchen can make

The common failings are easy to spot. A pale, thin broth means the meat was not given time. Hard, grey meat means it was boiled rather than simmered. A bowl of mush means the potatoes went in too early. None of these is a disaster, but each tells you something about how much care the kitchen takes with a simple dish.

How it compares with other stews

Irish stew is lighter than a French-style braise and less spiced than a curry. If you like a plain, honest bowl, it is for you. If you like a rich sauce, you may prefer a casserole.