Dublin coddle: what to expect from a bowl

Dublin coddle is a slow-cooked stew of sausages, bacon, potatoes and onions in a light broth. It is not pretty, and it is not meant to be. It is a plain, warming dish for a cold day, and it is best judged by how well the pieces have held together and how good the sausages are.

If you see it on a menu, here is what to expect.

What goes into it

The usual list is pork sausages, bacon or rashers, potatoes and onions, simmered together in water or stock. Some cooks add parsley, pepper or a little carrot. Because the ingredients are cooked together, the meat flavours the broth and the potatoes soak it up.

How it should look

Coddle is pale. The sausages are not browned, which can surprise people who expect a seared finish. The broth is light and slightly cloudy, with soft potato and onion. A good bowl has whole sausages, thick pieces of bacon and potatoes that have kept some shape.

A thin broth with tough, rubbery sausages is a sign of poor ingredients. A dry bowl, with little liquid, has been cooked too far or reheated too many times.

How it tastes

The flavour is mild and savoury, with salt from the bacon, pepper and the sweetness of cooked onion. It is not spiced or sharp. Many people add a little pepper or a spoon of mustard at the table.

What to eat it with

Brown bread or soda bread on the side is common, to mop up the broth. Some people have a pint with it. If you are eating it as a main course, a simple side of vegetables is plenty.

When it appears

Coddle is a cold-weather dish, and the sort of thing a kitchen makes in a big pot on a day when the weather turns. You are more likely to find it in the colder months, and some kitchens make it only on certain days. If it is not on the menu, ask whether it is made at all, because a few keep it for regulars or for a lunch special that never makes the printed card. A short question to the staff can save a wasted trip.

Questions to ask

• Are the sausages made in-house or by a butcher?
• Is it made with stock or water?
• Is there any wheat in the sausages, if you avoid gluten? Many sausages contain rusk.
• Does it come with bread?

How it compares with other dishes

Coddle is similar to a stew in its slow cooking but different in its lack of browning. It is plainer than a casserole and lighter than a pie. If you like honest, simple food, it is worth a try. If you like crisp textures and rich sauces, you may prefer something else.

Eating it well

Take your time. Coddle is not a dish to rush. Cut the sausage into pieces and eat with a spoonful of broth and potato. Add pepper to taste. Some people squash a potato into the broth to thicken it. The bread is there to be used, so tear a piece and dip it.

It is also a dish for sharing a table with someone who likes plain food. It is good value as a filling meal and a fair test of whether a kitchen respects its ingredients, since there is little to hide behind. When it is done well it is deeply comforting, and when it is done badly it is a reminder to order something else.

Who coddle suits

Coddle suits someone who wants plain, filling, warming food and does not mind that it is not pretty. It is a poor choice if you want crisp textures, strong flavours or a dish that looks good in a photograph. If you are travelling with someone who does not eat pork, it is not the dish for the table.

A note on salt

Bacon and sausage are salty, so coddle often is too. If you are watching your salt, ask whether the broth is made with a low-salt stock, and go easy on the bread and on added seasoning. A bowl you have to drink water after is a bowl that was too salty.

Finding it on Mosey

Where diners have photographed a bowl and named it, the dish can have its own page. Look at the pictures to see whether the place serves the pale, traditional style or a modern version.