Phoenix food guide: Sonoran hot dogs, chimichangas and Sonoran Mexican food

Phoenix sits in the Sonoran Desert, about 150 miles north of the Mexican border, and its most distinctive food comes from the Mexican state of Sonora, just to the south. Flour tortillas, grilled beef, red chile and beans define a regional cooking style that is different from Tex-Mex or the Mexican food of California. If you want to eat like a local, start with a Sonoran hot dog, order a chimichanga and learn what a cheese crisp is.

What is a Sonoran hot dog?

A Sonoran hot dog is a hot dog wrapped in bacon, grilled, and served in a soft, split bolillo-style roll. It is loaded with pinto beans, chopped onions, tomatoes, and drizzled with mustard, mayonnaise and jalapeno sauce, often with a grilled chile on the side. It is a street food that began in Hermosillo, the capital of Sonora, with some accounts dating it to the late 1980s and others earlier. It then traveled north with vendors, and in Arizona it has become a staple of carts, trucks and small restaurants.

Tucson is usually described as the bigger hot dog city, and one report suggested Phoenix's rules for food trucks, which restrict some toppings and the grilling of bacon, shaped the difference. Phoenix still has plenty of places to order one, including long-running carts and restaurants.

How do you order a Sonoran hot dog?

Look for a cart or truck with a grill, a steam table for the beans and a row of toppings. Say how many you want, and they will build each dog. You can ask for it without a particular topping, such as mayonnaise or jalapeno sauce. Prices are low, and many places take cash only. A dog is a snack for some and a meal for others, so start with one and add another if you are still hungry. A grilled chile (chile güero) or a roasted green onion often comes on the side, and you can ask for extra salsa. Lines at popular carts form late in the evening, after bars close, so go earlier if you want less of a wait. Food safety is regulated, and licensed carts display a permit, which is a good sign. Eat it right away while the bun is warm, with napkins nearby, because it is messy.

Who invented the chimichanga?

The chimichanga, a deep-fried burrito, has a disputed origin. According to Eater, which was cited in a food-history search, a Tucson restaurant and a Phoenix restaurant chain each claim to have invented it. Whichever is right, the chimichanga is now a fixture of Arizona Mexican restaurants: a flour tortilla filled with shredded beef, chicken or beans, folded, fried until crisp and served with rice, beans, salsa and sour cream. It is a hearty dish, and portions are often large enough to share.

What is a cheese crisp?

A cheese crisp is a large flour tortilla topped with melted cheese and baked or fried until crisp. It is often called a Mexican pizza, and it is served as an appetizer or snack in many Arizona Mexican restaurants. Versions may have green chiles, beans or meat on top. Order one to share while you read the menu. Good places make the tortilla fresh, so the cheese crisp arrives with crisp edges and a chewy center. Squeeze a little lime on top, and add salsa from the table.

What else defines Sonoran-style cooking?

Several features set it apart:

• Flour tortillas, often large and thin, made fresh at the restaurant.
• Carne asada, grilled beef, served as tacos, burritos or plates.
• Machaca and carne seca, dried, shredded beef cooked with chiles and onion.
• Red chile sauce, often a deep red sauce made from dried chiles.
• Beans and rice, served with most plates.
• Cheese, such as queso fresco and melted Chihuahua cheese.

Many Phoenix families have Sonoran roots, and the best restaurants are often small, family-run places with a short menu and a loyal clientele.

Where should you eat in Phoenix?

Phoenix is a large, sprawling city, so food is spread across many neighborhoods. Downtown Phoenix and the Roosevelt Row arts district have restaurants, bars and murals, within reach of light rail. South Phoenix and the western parts of the city have many family Mexican restaurants. A public market has been held downtown on Saturdays in the cooler months, with vendors selling produce, baked goods and prepared food; check the season and days. Because the area is so large, pick a neighborhood and explore it rather than crossing the city for one meal.

What is it like to eat out in the heat?

From June to September, daytime temperatures often pass 100 degrees, and locals eat late or in the evening. Many restaurants have patios with misters or shade, and indoor air conditioning is the norm. Plan outdoor meals for the evening or the cooler months from October through April. Drink water often. In July, many people schedule a long lunch at 11 a.m. before the worst heat and then stay indoors until evening. Our guide to eating out in the Arizona heat explains more. Many Phoenix restaurants shorten their hours in July and August, so a quick check of the website before you drive is worthwhile.

How does the check work?

Arizona charges a Transaction Privilege Tax, a form of sales tax, on restaurant meals, which is added to your check. The total rate depends on the city and county, so a meal costs a little more than the menu price. Tipping at table-service restaurants is typically 18 to 20 percent. At a hot dog cart, a tip is optional. On Mosey you can rate the places you eat and the dishes you order, with photos, so you can recall which cart made the best dog.

More guides to read next:

• Central Avenue, Melrose and Arcadia: Phoenix restaurants by neighborhood
• Cheap eats in Phoenix, Arizona under $15: tacos, hot dogs and more
• Roosevelt Row and downtown Phoenix: food guide, First Friday and more

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