Roosevelt Row and downtown Phoenix: food guide, First Friday and more

Downtown Phoenix has become one of the city's most walkable places to eat, and Roosevelt Row, a few blocks of murals, galleries and small restaurants just north of the center, is its heart. The area has a mix of food trucks, coffee roasters, bars and small restaurants in converted houses and low brick buildings. Walk the murals, eat at a small restaurant or a truck window, and plan around First Friday and the Arizona heat.

What is Roosevelt Row?

Roosevelt Row is an arts district centered on Roosevelt Street between Central Avenue and about Seventh Street, with murals on nearly every wall, galleries, studios and small businesses. It is a place for wandering rather than a single destination meal. A lot of the nearby restaurants are tiny, a few dozen seats at most, which matters for the crowds on busy nights. It is a short walk from the light rail and from the downtown core.

What is First Friday?

First Friday is a monthly art walk on the first Friday evening of each month. First Friday brings food booths, food trucks and free samples along Roosevelt Street, with sno-cones, popcorn, tamales and a variety of trucks. Part of Roosevelt Row and the surrounding area is closed to cars so that vendors and foot traffic can fill the streets. Expect a festival crowd, with long lines at the popular trucks and waits at the small restaurants. Some restaurants run special menus or shorten them; others close their dining rooms to focus on takeout. If you want a table, book ahead, or eat before the event begins in the early evening.

Where do you eat on a regular day?

Away from First Friday, the area is calm. Expect cozy bistros that fill early, a few upscale kitchens, and coffee and pastry counters. Coffee shops and bakeries are open in the morning for the downtown workers, and lunch counters serve office workers from the nearby government and business buildings. Dinner is lighter on the weekdays and busier on the weekend. Walk the street first and choose the place with the busy tables.

What about the public market and downtown food?

Downtown Phoenix has a farmers market scene in and around the Roosevelt and Central area, with local vendors selling produce, baked goods and prepared food. Farther along Central Avenue and in Heritage and Science Park, restaurants, bars and sports-night pubs serve the crowds from the arenas and convention center.

How do you beat the heat while eating downtown?

Phoenix summers are extreme, with highs often above 100 degrees Fahrenheit from May to September. Plan your walking in the morning or after sunset. Patios in summer often have misters, shade structures and fans, but the most comfortable choice is an indoor table. Carry water, wear a hat, and take breaks in air-conditioned spaces. Winter and spring are the best seasons for outdoor eating, and First Friday is most pleasant between October and April.

How do you spend an evening on Roosevelt Row?

A simple evening begins with a walk to see the murals while there is still light, then a drink on a patio or at a bar with a kitchen, then dinner at a small restaurant booked in advance. Galleries stay open on First Friday into the evening and some open for other events, so check the calendar. Bring a water bottle even at night, since the pavement holds heat long after sunset. If you are going with children, go early, because the crowd thickens after dark and many bars serve alcohol only to adults. Downtown hosts concerts, sports and conventions that can change the parking and the crowd, so check what is on before you pick a night.

How do you get there and park?

The Valley Metro light rail runs along Central Avenue and past downtown stations, which makes it easy to reach Roosevelt Row from the airport, from Tempe or from central Phoenix. Check the rail's schedule, especially for late nights. If you drive, parking near Roosevelt Row is available but fills up quickly on First Friday, and some street spaces are closed to cars. Rideshare is common for evening events.

What does it cost and what is on the check?

Prices range from food truck snacks to full dinners. Menu prices do not include tax: a transaction privilege tax, which Phoenix restaurants charge at a combined state, county and city rate, is added to the check. Tip 18 to 20 percent for table service, and a dollar or two or more at a truck window. Many trucks take cards but a few are cash only on busy nights.

What if you have dietary needs?

Phoenix is accommodating. Many restaurants offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, and food trucks can often change a dish for you. Tell the cook about allergies, because trucks and small kitchens have limited space and shared surfaces. For celiac disease, a menu label is not a guarantee.

When should you go?

For a quiet visit, go on a weekday in the cooler months and walk the murals in the morning. For a festival atmosphere, go on First Friday between October and April. Avoid the summer evenings if you do not like heat.

How do you keep track of a Roosevelt Row food night?

A First Friday evening can mean a truck snack, a small-restaurant dinner and a coffee on the way back to the light rail. In the Mosey app, rate each one by the dish, add a tag such as Food Truck or Lively, and keep the evening in a list you share with the friends who came. They can add the taco they waited in line for, and you will have a map of downtown eating built by the people who actually went. Follow a friend who lives nearby and their ratings show up beside yours.

Rate your first dish on Roosevelt Row in the Mosey app and start a downtown Phoenix list.

More guides to read next:

• Central Avenue, Melrose and Arcadia: Phoenix restaurants by neighborhood
• Best breakfast and brunch in Phoenix: burritos, patios and waits
• Phoenix farmers markets: Downtown, Saturday hours and summer

More in the US food guides and the ranked lists of places.