Ithaca and the Finger Lakes: farmers market, wine trails and where to eat

The Finger Lakes are a group of long, narrow lakes in central New York, and the region around them is one of the best places in the Northeast for local food and wine. Ithaca, at the southern tip of Cayuga Lake and home to Cornell University, is the natural base. The area has a strong tradition of farm markets, vegetarian cooking and cool-climate wine, especially Riesling, and it fills up on fall weekends.

What is the Ithaca Farmers Market?

The Ithaca Farmers Market has more than 160 vendors, who grow or make what they sell within 30 miles of the market. It sits at Steamboat Landing on Cayuga Lake and is seasonal. It has produce, baked goods, cheese, meat, plants and a large number of prepared-food stalls with dishes from around the world, which makes it a destination for lunch as well as shopping. Some vendors also pour wine, so you can try a local bottle at the market. Check the days and hours for your visit, because the schedule changes with the season.

What is Ithaca's vegetarian tradition?

One of Ithaca's best-known restaurants is a vegetarian restaurant that has been part of the city's identity for decades and whose cookbooks influenced American vegetarian cooking. Ithaca's food culture grew from that spirit: cooperative markets, vegetarian and vegan options and a focus on local ingredients. Check opening days and hours, because the restaurant has changed over the years.

How do the Finger Lakes wine trails work?

The Cayuga Lake Wine Trail's members include wineries, a cidery, a meadery and several distilleries. The Seneca Lake Wine Trail, to the west, is larger and runs along the lake's shores. Other lakes, such as Keuka, have their own clusters of producers. A trail is a group of wineries that cooperate on promotion, usually with a map and a passport, so you can plan a route. Pick up a trail map at any member winery, and ask the staff for a recommendation for the next stop, since neighbors tend to know each other well and are happy to point you toward a place that suits your taste. Many trails also publish seasonal events, such as barrel tastings in spring and harvest weekends in fall.

The region is known for cool-climate wines, particularly Riesling, as well as Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparkling wines. Cold winters and the moderating effect of deep lakes suit these grapes.

How do you plan a tasting day?

1. Pick one lake, and one side of it. The lakes are long and the roads wind. Trying to see two lakes in one day wastes the afternoon on the road.
2. Book ahead on weekends and in fall. Many tasting rooms ask for reservations for groups, and some require them.
3. Limit yourself to three or four stops and eat lunch in between.
4. Arrange a driver. Roads are rural and dark at night. Several tour companies run trips from Ithaca and other towns.
5. Ask about food. Some wineries serve full meals, and others offer cheese plates or let you bring a picnic.

When is the best time to go?

Late spring and early summer have green hills and fewer crowds. Summer weekends are popular. Fall is the busiest season, with harvest in September and October, fall color in October and festivals on many weekends; book hotels and tables as soon as you know your dates. Winter is quiet, with fewer tasting rooms open and a chance of snow, but it is the season for ice wine in some cellars. Some wineries host holiday markets and cellar events that are worth a look. Many restaurants cut back to weekends only in January and February, so check the days.

Where else can you eat in Ithaca?

Downtown Ithaca has the Commons, a pedestrian area lined with restaurants, cafes and bars. College Town, next to Cornell, serves students and faculty. The city is surrounded by gorges and waterfalls, and a walk to Ithaca Falls or Taughannock Falls makes a good pairing with a picnic from the market. Cornell's hospitality school and dairy bar are part of the local food story, so look for ice cream and cheese with a campus connection.

What other foods are local?

The region grows apples, grapes, berries and vegetables, and has a long dairy tradition. Many farms sell at roadside stands, and a few offer pick-your-own in season. Maple syrup season starts in late winter. Local cheesemakers and bakeries are worth seeking out, and you can find beer, cider and spirits from small producers. Wine is only part of the picture, and the region has built a reputation for craft beer, hard cider and distilled spirits as well. A lot of the producers are small and open only on weekends.

What about the check and tipping?

New York State and local sales tax apply to restaurant meals, and rates differ by county. Tipping at a restaurant is typically 18 to 20 percent, and a wine tasting fee is often separate from a tip. If you buy wine, ask about shipping, since rules vary by state. On Mosey you can keep lists of the wineries and restaurants you want to visit, which helps when your route has a dozen stops.

More guides to read next:

• Long Island North Fork guide: wineries, farm stands and Greenport
• Rochester and Syracuse food: garbage plates, white hots and salt potatoes
• Wilmington and the Cape Fear coast: Riverwalk seafood and beach towns

More in the US food guides and the ranked lists of places.