Rochester and Syracuse food: garbage plates, white hots and salt potatoes

Two cities in the middle of upstate New York have food traditions that most Americans have never heard of. Rochester has the garbage plate, a pile of meat, potatoes and macaroni salad that began as a cheap meal and became a local identity. Syracuse has salt potatoes, a simple dish tied to the region's salt mining history. Both are worth seeking out if you are driving along the Thruway.

What is a Rochester garbage plate?

A garbage plate is a plate heaped with two or more meats, two sides and sauce. The base is usually home fries and macaroni salad, topped with items such as cheeseburgers, hot dogs, sausage, eggs, chicken or fish, then smothered with a spiced meat sauce, along with mustard and chopped onions. A slice of bread and butter often comes on the side to mop up.

The dish began at a Rochester restaurant founded in 1918 and named for the founder's son. It grew out of hots and potatoes, a cheap, filling dish served during the Depression, with cured red hot dogs and uncured white hots. The nickname garbage plate is said to have come from college students, who asked for a plate with all the leftovers. Other restaurants sell similar plates under names like trash plate or Rochester plate.

How do you order a garbage plate?

You tell the cook which items you want, such as a cheeseburger and sausage, which sides, and whether you want the plate with or without sauce. Plates are named by their meats, such as a cheeseburger plate or a hot dog plate. Ask for the sauce on top, as that is the point. If you do not eat meat, many places can make a plate with eggs, vegetables or a veggie patty, though you should ask. Garbage plates are famously heavy. One plate can feed two people, and they are a late-night food. If you are traveling with a group, order one plate to share first, as the portions are huge. A garbage plate is a meal for the end of a long night out or a very hungry lunch, not a light snack.

What are white hots?

White hots are Rochester's regional hot dog: a pale, uncured hot dog made from a mix of pork, beef and veal. They have a mild, savory flavor and are grilled or steamed, then served in a soft roll, often with mustard and onions or with the meat sauce. A local company has made white hots for generations, and you will find them at summer stands, picnics and ball games. If you like hot dogs, try one next to a red hot.

What is the Rochester Public Market?

The Rochester Public Market is one of the oldest and largest public markets in the region, with food vendors, farm stands and prepared food. It operates on a few days a week, with Saturday the busiest, and runs year-round. Check the days and hours before you go. Arrive early on Saturday, when the sheds are full of farmers, flower sellers and food stalls, and parking fills. Bring bags, and cash for small purchases. It is a good place to buy fresh produce and cheese, and to try local baked goods.

What are salt potatoes?

Salt potatoes are small new potatoes boiled in water with a very large amount of salt, so that a thin crust of salt forms on the skin. They are served hot, dipped in melted butter. They are linked to Syracuse and to Onondaga County, where salt was produced for generations and where Irish workers in the salt fields are said to have cooked potatoes in the brine for lunch. They are a staple at summer cookouts and at the New York State Fair, which is held in Syracuse in late summer. Many supermarkets in the region sell a bag of potatoes with a packet of salt. At home, cook them in a pot with plenty of salt and just enough water to cover, boil until tender, then drain without rinsing, so the crust forms as they dry. Serve them in a bowl with melted butter alongside barbecued chicken or sausages, as locals do at summer cookouts.

What is the New York State Fair?

The State Fair, held outside Syracuse in late summer, is a large agricultural fair with a long tradition of food stalls. Expect fried food, sausage sandwiches, corn, local dairy and a wide range of fair classics. Crowds are big on weekends, and parking can take time. Check the dates each year.

Where else should you eat around Syracuse and Rochester?

Syracuse has a historic Italian-American neighborhood on the north side, a regional market with food vendors, and a university area with cheap eats. Rochester has a strong restaurant scene in neighborhoods such as the Neighborhood of the Arts and Park Avenue, a long tradition of farm stands around the city, and breweries. Both cities are close to the Finger Lakes, which makes them good bases for a food and wine trip, as our guide to Ithaca and the Finger Lakes explains.

What should you know about the check and tax?

New York State and local sales taxes apply to restaurant meals, and the rate varies by county, so the final total will be higher than the menu price; check the current rate. Tipping at table-service restaurants is typically 18 to 20 percent, and at counter-service garbage plate restaurants, tipping is optional but common. On Mosey you can keep a list of the regional foods you want to try on a road trip, and rate each one afterwards.

More guides to read next:

• Wilmington and the Cape Fear coast: Riverwalk seafood and beach towns
• Harrisburg and the Lehigh Valley: Pennsylvania food day trips
• Lancaster County food guide: Central Market and Pennsylvania Dutch cooking

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