Upper Peninsula Food: Pasties, Whitefish and Cudighi

Upper Peninsula food is the cooking of a place that is cold, remote and proud of it. Michigan's peninsula sits between Lake Superior and Lake Michigan, and its mining towns and fishing villages built a food culture on pasties, lake fish and Italian sausage. Locals call themselves Yoopers.

Winters are long and the roads can be slow, so plan overnight stops. Order a pasty with a side of gravy or ketchup, depending on which Yooper you ask.

What is a Michigan pasty?

A pasty is a small circle of pie crust folded around meat, potatoes, onions and spices, and sometimes carrots or rutabaga. NPR reports that immigrant miners from Cornwall brought it to the Upper Peninsula, where it became the miner's lunch because it could be carried underground and eaten warm.

Michigan pasties are served in shops across the peninsula, and every family has a view on the right filling. Eat one with ketchup or gravy, depending on which side of the argument you take. A pasty is a meal, so one is enough.

The crust is the first thing to judge. It should be flaky but sturdy, brown on the outside and not greasy. The filling should be moist from the potatoes and onions, with enough seasoning to taste of pepper and salt. If the filling is dry, the pasty was baked too long. A good one is still warm in the hand and holds together when you bite.

Where can you find the best Michigan pasties?

Jean Kay's Pasties has a shop in Marquette, and it makes its pasties the old way, with suet instead of lard and plenty of rutabaga. Lawry's Pasty Shop is a three-generation family business with shops in Marquette and Ishpeming. Check Lawry's own page for addresses and hours.

Irontown Pasties in Negaunee is one of the few places that offers gluten-free pasties. Compare two or three shops, and decide for yourself. Several shops and fish houses here come from older roundups, so check hours before you drive.

What is Upper Peninsula whitefish?

Upper Peninsula whitefish comes from the cold, deep waters of Lake Superior. It is a delicate, mild fish that is served broiled, fried or smoked. Thill's Fish House in Marquette is known for smoked fish, including whitefish, lake trout and walleye, according to a Saveur piece. Crossroads Lounge in Marquette serves Lake Superior whitefish and holds a Friday fish fry, according to Roadfood.

Smoked whitefish travels well and makes a good gift. Ask for a small amount to try, or buy a larger piece and make a sandwich with rye bread.

A Friday fish fry is a regional ritual. Taverns and supper clubs serve whitefish, perch or walleye with fries and coleslaw, and the room fills with locals. If you are traveling on a Friday, ask where the fish fry is and join it. It is among the most honest meals on the peninsula.

Which Marquette restaurants should you try?

Marquette restaurants offer a mix of pasties, fish and modern kitchens, since the city is home to a university. Besides the pasty and fish places above, the city has coffee shops, breweries and bakeries.

Use Marquette as a base for a few days. It sits on Lake Superior, with trails and beaches within a short drive, and a walkable downtown. Check hours, since some businesses close in the shoulder seasons.

The town works well for a mix of eating and outdoor time. A morning hike, a pasty lunch on a bench by the lake and a fish dinner at a local lounge make a full day, and the cool air of the north shore sharpens the appetite.

What is UP cudighi?

UP cudighi is an Italian sausage sandwich, unique to the Upper Peninsula. The sausage is seasoned with a blend of spices, and it is typically served on a roll with cheese and sauce. Ralph's Italian Deli in Ishpeming serves cudighi, according to Roadfood.

Cudighi shows the peninsula's immigrant mix, with Italian families who came to work in the mines. Order one with onions and peppers, and eat it hot.

How do you plan a trip for Upper Peninsula food?

The Upper Peninsula is large, and towns are far apart. From the Mackinac Bridge to Marquette is several hours by car. Plan two or three bases, and book rooms early in summer and in the fall color season.

Fill the tank often, and carry water and snacks. Cell service is patchy in the interior. Winter brings heavy snow, so check road conditions.

What else should you eat around Michigan?

For city dining, read brunch in Detroit. The Midwest fall food guide covers cider mills and orchards, and the Wisconsin cheese trail and Door County food guide follows the Great Lakes south. The US guides page lists more.

How can Mosey help with pasties and fish fries?

Following in the Mosey app means what you see about pasties and fish fries comes from friends and raters you chose, and you can unfollow anyone whose taste does not match yours. Between stops, the daily games, Ladle, Origin and Ingredient, are a short way to learn where a dish comes from and what goes into it.

A pasty is a small thing that deserves a score. Get the Mosey app, rate each pasty by its crust, its filling and its gravy, and keep an Upper Peninsula list that records your favorite shop.