Long Island seafood guide: Montauk, the South Shore and clam bars

Long Island is surrounded by water, and for a long time its food came from the bay, the sound and the ocean. Clammers, oystermen and lobstermen worked from docks in towns that are now better known for beach houses. Visitors can still eat what they catch: steamed clams, raw oysters, fried fish and lobster rolls, at roadside stands and dockside counters as well as restaurants. Here is seafood: where it comes from, how the state's own trail helps you find it and how to plan a day without getting stuck in traffic.

What is the Long Island Seafood Cuisine Trail?

New York State's Department of Agriculture and Markets publishes a Long Island Seafood Cuisine Trail, a list of seafood markets, farms and restaurants along the South Shore and the East End. The trail includes oyster farms, fish markets and restaurants that serve local seafood. It is a good starting point if you want a map of places that buy locally. Use the department's own page for the current list, since businesses open and close and the trail is updated.

What can you eat in Montauk and the South Fork?

Montauk, at the far eastern tip, is a fishing village with a working harbor and a string of seafood places. You find a mix of clam bars, raw bars, lobster rolls, fish houses and big dockside complexes with a market and several restaurants. Roadside clam shacks in towns such as Amagansett are known for fried and steamed shellfish. Prices run high in summer, and lines form at lunch. Many places close in winter, or open only on weekends, so check before you drive.

What about Greenport and the North Fork?

Greenport is a harbor village on the North Fork with waterfront seafood, fish markets that serve at picnic tables and restaurants that focus on local fish, produce and wine. The Long Island Rail Road runs to Greenport, but you need a car or a bike to explore beyond the village. North Fork duck appears on some menus, a reminder that Long Island has farm traditions as well as fishing ones. Summer weekends bring crowds, so book where you can.

Where do you eat on the South Shore?

The South Shore, along Great South Bay, has its own seafood tradition. The state trail lists seafood markets and restaurants in towns such as Mastic, Sayville and West Sayville, and an oyster farm that offers tours and tastings in West Sayville. Bay Shore, Freeport and other harbor towns have ferry terminals, seafood houses and waterfront bars. Many are casual and cheaper than the Hamptons.

What should you order?

• Raw oysters from the bays and sound, ask which bay each came from.
• Steamers, the soft-shell clams steamed and served with broth and butter.
• Fried clams and fried fish baskets.
• Lobster rolls, hot with butter or cold with mayonnaise.
• Chowder, Manhattan red or New England white, depending on the kitchen.
• Fluke, bluefish and striped bass in season, grilled or fried.

When is the best time to go?

Summer is the busiest, with every table taken on weekends. Late spring and early fall are calmer and the water is still warm enough for a pleasant afternoon, and oyster farms often have seasonal events. Winter is the quietest, and many seasonal shacks close. Midweek is easier at any time. Avoid Friday afternoon and Sunday evening on the Long Island Expressway and the highways to the East End if you can, since traffic can add hours.

How do you get there?

The Long Island Rail Road serves many South Shore and North Fork towns. Montauk is reachable by train with a change, and the ride is long. A car is easiest for moving between stops. In summer, buses and shuttles run to the Hamptons. Ferries cross from Long Island to other islands, and some towns have docks with seafood stops.

What are the safety tips for raw shellfish?

Eat raw shellfish only from a reputable seller that follows state rules on harvest areas. If you are pregnant, immunocompromised or have liver disease, ask your doctor first. Ask when the shellfish was harvested and keep it cold if you carry it home.

How do you eat on a budget?

Fish markets sell fresh seafood by the pound, and many have picnic tables. A lunch of a fried fish basket and a drink costs less than dinner at a sit-down restaurant. Weekday specials and early dinners are cheaper. Avoid peak summer weekends.

How do you plan a day without a car?

It is harder, but possible. Take the Long Island Rail Road to a South Shore or North Fork town, then walk to the harbor. Greenport, Sayville and Freeport all have seafood within walking distance of a station or ferry dock, though schedules thin out on weekends and in winter. Check the train times before you go and plan a return an hour earlier than you think you need. In summer, bike rentals near stations make the East End easier.

What do you pay and what do you tip?

Seafood on Long Island is priced by the market, and a lobster roll can cost far more than a fried fish basket. New York adds sales tax to restaurant meals, so the check is higher than the menu. A tip of 18 to 20 percent is customary at table service, and counters have tip jars. Some dock restaurants add a service charge for large groups, so read the menu and the check.

How do you remember what you tried?

A day of clam bars and raw bars goes by quickly. Mosey is a food-first app where diners find places by dish, mood and neighborhood and rate what they actually ate. Rate each oyster and each lobster roll, and Mosey keeps the list for the next Fourth of July. Tag the clam bars worth the drive as Fresh Seafood, and see where the friends you follow stopped on the way to Montauk.

More guides to read next:

• Rochester Public Market guide: days, hours and where to eat
• Syracuse food guide: Salt City Market, Regional Market, North Side
• Where to eat in Bend, Oregon: Old Mill, Downtown and breweries

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