What is Victoria's Chinatown known for?

It is a historic Chinatown of narrow lanes and old brick buildings in the Old Town, with Fan Tan Alley, bakeries, tea shops and grocers. Guidebooks sometimes call it the oldest in the country, but treat that as a boast rather than a measured record and go for the food and the atmosphere.

Where is Fan Tan Alley?

It is a narrow lane between Fisgard Street and Pandora Avenue in the Old Town, in the middle of Chinatown.

Is Chinatown in Victoria walkable from the Inner Harbour?

Yes. It is about a ten-minute walk north of the Inner Harbour, and the whole district can be covered on foot in an hour or two.

What time do Chinatown shops and restaurants open?

Hours vary by business and some close earlier than the rest of the Old Town, so check each one. Late morning to early afternoon is the safest window.

Do I need to tip at a bakery counter in Chinatown?

No. Tipping is optional at a counter. At a sit-down restaurant with table service, 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax bill is the normal range.

Neighbourhood guide

Victoria's Chinatown and Fan Tan Alley: a food guide for a first visit

Mosey · November 11, 2026 · 4 min read

Victoria's Chinatown covers only a few blocks of the Old Town, but it packs a lot of history into a small area, with narrow lanes and old brick buildings. Today it is a place to graze: a bakery for a custard tart, a tea shop, a noodle counter, a grocery that sells dried mushrooms and lychee jelly, and a narrow lane of tiny shops.

Where is Chinatown in Victoria and how do you get there?

The district sits at the north edge of the Old Town, around Fisgard Street, between Government Street and Store Street. It is a ten-minute walk from the Inner Harbour, so most visitors arrive on foot. Fisgard Street is the spine, marked by a ceremonial gate, and the side streets and lanes hold the smaller businesses.

What is Fan Tan Alley?

Fan Tan Alley is a lane that runs between Fisgard Street and Pandora Avenue. It is often described as the narrowest commercial street in North America, though that is a claim repeated in guidebooks rather than a measured record. It is narrow enough that two people with shopping bags have to turn sideways. The name comes from fan-tan, a gambling game once played in the district.

Today the lane holds small independent shops rather than anything you would call a restaurant row. Walk through it for the atmosphere, then eat on the streets around it.

What should you eat in Victoria's Chinatown?

Think in small stops rather than one big meal.

Baked goods. Look for custard tarts, pineapple buns, egg rolls and sesame balls. A bakery counter is the quickest way to eat well for a few dollars.
Noodles and congee. A bowl of congee or wonton noodles is a good light lunch after a morning on the harbour.
Dim sum. Dim sum is usually a late-morning to mid-afternoon meal. Go with a group so you can order several dishes.
Tea. Specialist shops sell loose-leaf tea, and some will let you taste before you buy.
Groceries to take home. Dried fruit, preserved ginger, sauces and snacks are easy to pack and make good gifts.

When is the best time to visit?

Late morning to early afternoon works well, because bakeries are stocked and dim sum is being served. Some small businesses close earlier than the rest of the Old Town, or on one day a week, so do not leave Chinatown for the end of a long day. Hours change from business to business, so check each one before you plan around it.

Summer weekends bring the biggest crowds from the cruise ships and the harbour. A weekday morning in spring or autumn is quieter and gives you time to talk to the people behind the counter.

How do you pay in small Chinatown shops?

Most places take debit and credit cards, but a small shop or bakery counter may have a minimum, or may prefer cash for very small purchases. Carry a little cash for a tea sample or a pastry. Tipping is not expected at a counter, though leaving small change in a jar is a kindness. At a sit-down restaurant with table service, the usual Canadian range of 15 to 20 percent on the pre-tax bill applies.

How do you combine Chinatown with the rest of the Old Town?

Chinatown is five minutes from Market Square, Bastion Square and the waterfront. A simple plan is dim sum or noodles for lunch, a walk through Fan Tan Alley, then coffee and a stroll along Government Street. If you are visiting in Lunar New Year season, ask at the shops about the sweets and sticky cakes made for the holiday.

How do you choose where to eat when everything looks good?

Look at who is eating there. A counter busy with regulars at 11 in the morning is a better signal than a sign in English with photos. Ask what is fresh that day. And if you rate the dishes you try, your notes help the next person decide.

Mosey is built around rating the dishes you actually ate, so a page like this one gets better as people share what was worth the walk.

Eating your way across British Columbia? The Food in British Columbia page links every town we cover.

Common questions

What is Victoria's Chinatown known for?
It is a historic Chinatown of narrow lanes and old brick buildings in the Old Town, with Fan Tan Alley, bakeries, tea shops and grocers. Guidebooks sometimes call it the oldest in the country, but treat that as a boast rather than a measured record and go for the food and the atmosphere.
Where is Fan Tan Alley?
It is a narrow lane between Fisgard Street and Pandora Avenue in the Old Town, in the middle of Chinatown.
Is Chinatown in Victoria walkable from the Inner Harbour?
Yes. It is about a ten-minute walk north of the Inner Harbour, and the whole district can be covered on foot in an hour or two.
What time do Chinatown shops and restaurants open?
Hours vary by business and some close earlier than the rest of the Old Town, so check each one. Late morning to early afternoon is the safest window.
Do I need to tip at a bakery counter in Chinatown?
No. Tipping is optional at a counter. At a sit-down restaurant with table service, 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax bill is the normal range.