Tourtière: Quebec's meat pie, what is in it and how to eat it well

Tourtière is the pie that Quebec eats in winter. It is a savoury pie of French origin, traditionally made with minced pork, veal or game and seasoned with warm spices such as clove and cinnamon. It appears on family tables in the weeks around Christmas and New Year, on menus in Quebec City's old town and at bakeries and butchers across the province. If you are in Quebec between late autumn and January, it is the dish to try.

What is in a tourtière?

The classic filling is minced meat, usually pork, sometimes mixed with veal or beef, cooked with onion and spices and bound with a little potato or breadcrumbs. The pastry is a double crust, baked until golden. The spice is the point. Clove and cinnamon give it a sweet-savoury warmth that is unlike a pie in an English or American style. Recipes vary by family, and each family argues that its version is the right one.

Is there more than one kind?

Yes, and the name causes confusion.

• The classic pork tourtière is the one most visitors will meet, served as a main course.
• Game versions use venison, bison or other meats, and are a feature of some restaurants.
• Tourtière du Lac-Saint-Jean, a regional pie that uses diced meat and potato instead of mince, is baked slowly in a deep dish.
• Seafood pies exist in other regions and are not the same dish.

If you are curious, ask your server what style the kitchen uses.

How is it served?

A slice of tourtière comes hot, often with a side of pickled beets, green tomato chutney or ketchup. Which condiment you choose is a matter of taste and family habit. Many Quebecers prefer a sweet-sour relish; others swear by ketchup. A green salad and a glass of red wine or a cider go with it.

When is it eaten?

Tourtière is closely tied to the winter holidays and to the réveillon, the late-night meal after the Christmas Eve service in many Quebec families. Bakeries and butchers sell them in December, often by order, so if you want to take one home, ask in advance. You can find it on restaurant menus at other times, but the holiday season is when it is at its best.

Where do you find a good one?

In Quebec City, the old town and its surrounding streets have traditional restaurants that serve tourtière, and so do the bakeries and food halls. Some butchers and caterers sell them ready to bake. In Montreal and smaller towns, check local bakeries and church or community sales. Look for these signs of a good pie:

1. A crust that is golden and flaky, not pale and soft.
2. A filling that is moist but not greasy.
3. A clear spice note of clove or cinnamon, without being overpowering.
4. A pie that is sold hot, or one with clear reheating instructions.

What should you know before you order?

Many tourtières contain pork, and some include beef or other meats, so people who avoid certain meats should ask. The crust contains wheat. Allergies and dietary needs vary, so speak to the staff. Vegetarian versions exist in some restaurants and use mushrooms, lentils or vegetables, but they are not traditional.

Can you make one at home?

You can, and many Quebecers do, in the week before Christmas. A simple recipe uses minced pork, onion, a little water or stock and spices, simmered until the liquid is absorbed, then baked in a double crust. Let the filling cool before it goes into the pastry, so the crust stays crisp.

What do Quebecers drink with it?

A glass of red wine, a cider or a beer suits the spiced pork. In the winter holidays, many families serve it with a hot cider or a glass of something sweet afterward. Quebec has a strong tradition of cider and ice cider, and a producer's tasting room is a good place to ask for a pairing. If you are driving, ask for a non-alcoholic cider or a sparkling apple juice.

How do you keep a leftover slice?

Cold tourtière is good, and many people eat the leftovers for breakfast. Keep the pie covered in the fridge for a few days, or freeze slices wrapped tightly. To reheat, warm a slice in a moderate oven until hot in the middle, which brings back the crust. Avoid the microwave, which makes pastry soft. Always reheat meat pies until they are steaming hot throughout.

How do you pay and tip in Quebec?

Quebec adds GST and QST to restaurant bills, and prices on menus are shown before tax. Tipping at a table is 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax amount, and Quebec law requires suggested tips on payment terminals to be calculated before tax.

Mosey is built around rating the dishes people actually ate, so a tourtière that is worth the cold walk can be noted by name.

More guides to read next:

• Guelph food guide: the farmers' market, downtown and a day trip from Toronto
• James Street North and the Art Crawl, Hamilton: where to eat on Art Crawl night
• Niagara Icewine Festival: what icewine is, what to expect and how to plan a January visit

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