Afternoon tea in Victoria, BC: how it works, when to book and what to expect

Victoria has taken afternoon tea more seriously than almost anywhere in Canada. The Fairmont Empress, the grand hotel on the Inner Harbour, has served it since the hotel opened in 1908, and the habit spread to tea rooms, gardens and hotel lounges across the city. If you have never had afternoon tea, it is easier than it looks, and a pleasant way to spend an hour or two.

What is afternoon tea, exactly?

It is a light meal served in the middle of the afternoon, built around a pot of tea. You usually get a tiered stand with three layers. The bottom holds small sandwiches, the middle holds scones with jam and cream, and the top holds pastries and small cakes. You eat from the bottom up. A pot of loose-leaf tea arrives with the stand, and most places let you choose the blend.

It is not the same as high tea, a phrase that originally meant a heartier early-evening meal. In Canada, people use the two terms loosely, so read the menu to see what is on offer.

How far ahead should you book?

Plan ahead, especially in summer, over holidays and on weekends. Famous venues fill up days or weeks before, and a small tea room may have only a handful of tables. Ask about the booking terms when you reserve: some places take a card number or a deposit, and many have a cancellation window. Rules differ from business to business, so read the confirmation.

If you are travelling in July or August, or around Mother's Day, book as early as you can. In a quiet week in spring, a phone call a day or two ahead may be enough.

What should you wear?

Smart casual is a safe choice. Some venues state a dress code, and some ask you not to wear athletic wear or beachwear. Check the booking page rather than guessing. You will not need a hat.

How much time should you allow?

Allow an hour and a half to two hours. The point is to sit, talk and refill the pot. Do not schedule a tight tour straight afterwards.

How does tipping work at afternoon tea?

It is table service, so the usual range is 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax bill. Some hotels add a service charge or a gratuity, so look at the bill before you add more. If a gratuity is already shown, you do not need to add another unless you wish to.

Are there good alternatives to the famous hotel?

Yes. Victoria has tea rooms in old houses, in garden settings and in hotel lounges, and prices and atmosphere vary widely. Look for places that bake their scones on site, list the tea blends they serve and take bookings. A smaller room can feel more relaxed, and tables are easier to get.

If you want an afternoon tea with a garden, ask whether outdoor seating is open in the season you are visiting.

What about dietary needs?

Tell the tea room when you book. Gluten-free, vegetarian, vegan and nut-free versions are common, but they need notice, because the kitchen builds the stand in advance. If an allergy is serious, say so plainly and ask how the kitchen handles it.

How do you make the most of it?

• Share a stand if you want a lighter afternoon, if the venue allows it.
• Try a tea you do not usually order.
• Walk afterwards. The Inner Harbour causeway, Government Street and Beacon Hill Park are all close.

What should you know about the scones, jam and cream?

Scones are served warm, with jam and thick cream, usually clotted or whipped. Split a scone in half rather than cutting it, and put on as much cream and jam as you like. People argue over which goes on first, and nobody at the table will mind either way. Ask for more jam or hot water if you run out; a good tea room refills both without fuss.

Is afternoon tea suitable for children?

Many tea rooms welcome children and some offer a children's version with smaller sandwiches and juice instead of tea. Ask when you book, because a few venues set a minimum age for certain seatings. It is a calm meal, so a child who enjoys sitting at a table and trying small things does well.

What if you only want tea and a scone?

A full stand is a lot of food. Many tea rooms and café-bakeries sell a pot of tea with a single scone or a slice of cake, and that is a good option in the middle of a day of sightseeing. Ask whether there is a shorter menu available without a booking.

Mosey is a food discovery app where diners rate the dishes they ate, so a scone that was worth the detour gets noticed.

For the rest of the province, start at the Food in British Columbia page.

More guides to read next:

• Coquitlam, Port Moody and the Tri-Cities: where to eat east of Vancouver
• Salt Spring Island food guide: the Saturday Market, farm stands and where to eat
• Victoria's Chinatown and Fan Tan Alley: a food guide for a first visit

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.