Montreal smoked meat: how to order it and what makes it special

Montreal smoked meat is one of the city's great contributions to North American food. It is brisket that has been cured with spices, smoked, steamed and hand-sliced, then piled on rye bread with yellow mustard. It is simple, rich and deeply satisfying, and ordering it properly is part of the fun.

What is Montreal smoked meat?

It is beef brisket, dry-cured with a mix of spices such as black pepper, coriander and garlic for a number of days, then smoked, and finally steamed until tender. The meat is sliced, traditionally by hand, and served warm. The tradition came from Jewish immigrants, and the city's delis have been serving it for about a century.

What is the difference between smoked meat and pastrami?

They are close relatives, but not the same:

	Montreal smoked meat	New York pastrami
Cut	Usually whole brisket	Often navel or plate, sometimes brisket
Cure	Dry spice cure, often with less sugar	Often brined, sometimes sweeter
Seasoning	Peppery and savoury	Heavy pepper and coriander crust
Served	On rye with yellow mustard	On rye with mustard

Fans of each will insist they are completely different. Try both and decide.

How do you order Montreal smoked meat?

At a classic deli, you will be asked how you want it cut:

• Lean: less fat, firmer and drier.
• Medium: a mix of lean and fatty, the most popular choice.
• Fatty: rich, soft and very flavourful.

If you are unsure, order medium. If you are feeling brave, order fatty. It is the version many regulars swear by.

A typical order is a smoked meat sandwich on rye with mustard, with sides of fries, a pickle and coleslaw. Many people also order a cherry soda, an old-school deli tradition.

Where is the most famous smoked meat in Montreal?

The most famous deli is Schwartz's, on Saint-Laurent Boulevard, which opened in 1928. It is small, busy and old-fashioned, and there is often a line outside. Other long-running delis across the city have devoted followings too, and many locals have their own favourite.

How do you avoid the line for smoked meat?

1. Go at an off-peak time, such as mid-afternoon on a weekday.
2. Get it to go: some delis have a separate takeout counter with a shorter wait.
3. Try another deli: Montreal has several excellent smoked meat restaurants, often with shorter lines.

Why is smoked meat sliced by hand?

Hand-slicing lets the cutter adjust each slice to the grain and fat of that part of the brisket, and keeps the warm meat from shredding. It is also how a deli gives you lean, medium or fatty: the cutter chooses which part of the brisket to take from. Machine-sliced smoked meat exists, and can be fine, but many fans think the hand-cut version is more tender and juicy. Watching the cutters at work behind the counter is part of the experience at a busy deli.

Can you buy smoked meat to take home?

Yes. Many delis sell smoked meat by the pound, sliced or whole. It reheats well if you steam it gently, which keeps it moist. Some delis also sell their spice blends and vacuum-packed meat.

Is Montreal smoked meat healthy?

It is a rich, salty, indulgent dish, best enjoyed as a treat. Ordering lean cuts and sharing fries helps if you want a lighter meal. If you are watching your salt intake, it is worth knowing that cured meats are high in sodium.

What other deli foods should you try in Montreal?

• Smoked meat poutine: fries, cheese curds and gravy topped with smoked meat.
• Karnatzel: a thin, dry sausage sold at some delis.
• Matzo ball soup and latkes at traditional Jewish delis.
• Cheesecake or rice pudding for dessert.

How much should you tip at a Montreal deli?

At a sit-down deli with table service, tip 15 to 20 percent of the bill before tax, as at any restaurant. In Quebec, suggested tips on payment terminals must be calculated on the pre-tax amount. At a takeout counter, tipping is optional.

Is smoked meat available outside Montreal?

Some delis elsewhere in Canada serve Montreal-style smoked meat, and some Montreal delis ship it. It is good, but eating it in a Montreal deli, sliced to order, is a different experience.

Mosey is built around rating specific dishes. With smoked meat, the details matter: lean or fatty, which deli, and whether the rye was fresh.

More guides to read next:

• Atwater Market guide: what to buy and eat by the Lachine Canal
• Poutine in Montreal: where it came from and how to spot a great one
• Sugar shack season in Quebec: what a cabane à sucre meal is like

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.