The best neighbourhoods for food in Montreal, and what to eat in each

Montreal eats with real enthusiasm. It has French bistros and Jewish delis, Italian cafés and Portuguese grills, Haitian, Vietnamese, Lebanese and Greek kitchens, two famous kinds of bagel, and a love of poutine at any hour. Most of it is organized by neighbourhood, and a little knowledge of the map goes a long way.

Where is the best food in Montreal?

Neighbourhood	Go for	Good to know
Mile End	Bagels, cafés, bakeries	Home to the city's two most famous bagel bakeries
Plateau-Mont-Royal	Bistros, bring your own wine restaurants, brunch	Leafy streets, colourful staircases, lots of choice
Saint-Laurent Boulevard ("the Main")	Smoked meat, delis, late-night food	A historic street running through several neighbourhoods
Little Italy	Jean-Talon Market, espresso, Italian groceries	Busy, especially on weekends in summer
Saint-Henri and Little Burgundy	New restaurants, bars, Atwater Market	Formerly industrial, now one of the city's dining hotspots
Old Montreal	Historic dining rooms, cafés, special-occasion meals	Charming but touristy in parts
Chinatown	Dumplings, noodles, bakeries	Compact and close to downtown

What is Mile End known for?

Mile End is the home of the Montreal bagel. Two long-running bakeries a block apart, on Saint-Viateur and Fairmount streets, have been hand-rolling bagels, boiling them in honey water and baking them in wood-fired ovens for decades. The neighbourhood is also full of cafés, bakeries and small places, and has a creative, relaxed feel.

Buy a bag of bagels hot from the oven in Mile End, then walk them to a park. It is the cheapest great meal in Montreal.

What is the Plateau known for?

The Plateau-Mont-Royal is a leafy neighbourhood of colourful row houses with outdoor staircases, and a dense mix of cafés, bistros and brunch spots. It is also the heart of Montreal's "apportez votre vin" (bring your own wine) restaurants, especially around Duluth Avenue and Prince-Arthur Street. Many have no wine list at all, and you bring your own bottle.

Where should you go for smoked meat in Montreal?

Head to Saint-Laurent Boulevard, known locally as "the Main". It has long been a centre of Jewish delis, and the city's most famous smoked meat restaurant, open since 1928, is still there. Expect a line at peak times.

What is Jean-Talon Market like?

Jean-Talon Market, in Little Italy, is one of the oldest and biggest public markets in Montreal, open year-round since the 1930s. In summer and fall it bursts with Quebec produce, berries, corn and apples, and there are cheese shops, butchers, bakeries and snack stands around it. Little Italy's cafés and Italian grocers are right next door.

Is Saint-Henri good for food?

Very. Saint-Henri, in the southwest, was historically a working-class industrial area and has become home to many of the city's most talked-about restaurants, bars and cafés, especially along Notre-Dame Street West. The Atwater Market, opened in 1933 with its distinctive clock tower, is nearby on the Lachine Canal.

How do you plan a food day in Montreal?

1. Morning: bagels in Mile End, then a coffee.
2. Midday: Jean-Talon Market in Little Italy for snacks and fruit.
3. Afternoon: walk through the Plateau, stopping at a café.
4. Dinner: a bring your own wine bistro in the Plateau, or smoked meat on Saint-Laurent.
5. Late night: poutine, because it is Montreal.

What should you know about eating out in Montreal?

• Tax: bills carry 5 percent GST and 9.975 percent QST, shown as two lines.
• Tipping: 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax bill at a sit-down place. In Quebec, the suggested percentages on a payment terminal must be calculated before tax.
• Language: menus are in French, often with English too. A friendly "bonjour" goes a long way.
• Drinking age: 18 in Quebec.

How do you get around Montreal for food?

The metro reaches most neighbourhoods, and the city's BIXI bike share is popular in the warmer months. Mile End, the Plateau and Little Italy are close enough to walk or cycle between in a day. Old Montreal and Saint-Henri are a metro ride away.

Is Montreal good for food in winter?

Montreal winters are cold and long, but the city does not stop eating. Bistros, delis and bakeries are cozy, and from late February into April the sugar shack season brings maple-themed feasts just outside the city. Winter also means hearty Québécois food such as tourtière (meat pie) and pea soup on many menus.

Mosey is built around the places people actually ate at, dish by dish. In a city where the same street has a famous deli and a quiet bistro next door, specific tips matter.

More guides to read next:

• Atwater Market guide: what to buy and eat by the Lachine Canal
• Bring your own wine in Montreal: how "apportez votre vin" restaurants work
• How much do you tip in Montreal? Quebec tipping, GST and QST explained

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.