Rhode Island Calamari in Providence: A Diner's Guide

Rhode Island calamari is fried squid tossed with thin slices of pickled hot peppers, and since 2014 it has been the state's official appetizer. In Providence it is a menu staple, often served with marinara on the side. Here is why Rhode Island honors a squid dish, how it is made and how to judge a plate.

The story behind the title, what separates this style from other fried squid and a few notes while you compare plates are all you need.

What is Rhode Island calamari, the state appetizer?

According to the Boston Globe, citing the Associated Press, Governor Lincoln Chafee signed the bill naming calamari the official state appetizer at the town dock in Narragansett. State Representative Joseph McNamara and State Senator Susan Sosnowski sponsored it. The Globe says the law recognizes the importance of the squid fishing industry and aims to promote the state's food and tourism industries, and that a similar effort the year before had stalled in the Senate.

The Globe describes the local style: chefs saute squid with thin slices of pickled hot peppers and sometimes serve it with marinara sauce on the side. Many kitchens fry it first, so expect a crisp coating, tender rings and tentacles, and a bright, vinegary heat from the peppers. Go Providence's food video says it became common because the state sits in the path of the Atlantic squid migration.

Why does Rhode Island honor squid?

The state's own fishing story explains it. The Globe ties the title to squid fishing, and Rhode Island is known for a large squid catch landed at its docks. For a diner, the practical point is freshness: a plate of squid is only as good as the squid, and a place near the water has a head start. You can still taste the difference at any table, because overcooked squid turns rubbery and a fresh, quickly cooked ring stays tender.

The competition for the title was not only squid. Local food culture runs to clam cakes, stuffed quahogs and chowder, so a plate of calamari sits in a lineup of seafood that Rhode Islanders eat all year. Go Providence's food video places the dish next to coffee milk, clam cakes and hot wieners as part of the state's culinary heritage, which tells you how much Rhode Islanders think of it as everyday food rather than a special-occasion plate.

How do you judge a plate of fried squid?

Look first at the coating. It should be thin and crisp, not a thick shell, and it should still be crisp when you finish the plate. Bite a ring: tender with a little resistance is right, and tough or chewy means overcooked. The peppers should be bright and tangy, with enough heat to wake the dish up without hiding the squid. The sauce on the side is a bonus, not a cover.

Share a plate with the table, since it is rich, and eat it while it is hot. Squid goes from tender to tough in seconds, so a plate that arrives quickly and steaming is usually a good sign, and one that sits under a heat lamp is not. Notice the amount of oil on the plate and whether a squeeze of lemon helps. If you are comparing two kitchens, order the plain Rhode Island style at each, and save variations such as sweet chili or garlic butter for another visit.

What should you know about allergens and ingredients?

Squid is a shellfish in the broad sense of seafood, and the coating is usually made with wheat flour. Some kitchens use buttermilk or eggs, and the frying oil may be shared with other items. If you have a shellfish, gluten or dairy allergy, tell the server before you order and ask how the dish is prepared. Our shellfish allergy guide explains what to ask. Treat each answer as that day's information.

How can Mosey help you remember a plate in Providence?

Open the Mosey app after the meal and rate the calamari as a dish, with a few words on the coating, the peppers and the tenderness of the squid. Only the place and the stars are required. Add a tag, attach a photo and tag the friend who shared the plate, who can add their own rating of the same dish.

Start a list called Calamari comparisons and send the invite link to a friend so they can add theirs, even if they are not on Mosey yet. Follow friends to see what they rated and saved. The ratings page explains rating by the dish and the lists page covers shared lists.

Mosey is a food app for rating dishes, keeping lists and sharing them with friends. Small kitchens are welcome: listing costs a place nothing, and it comes without hidden fees.

Where else can you read about Providence?

For more Rhode Island eating, see the food words guide, the clam shack guide and the Federal Hill guide. To plan a visit, read how to find good food in Providence. See also the Providence page, the Rhode Island page and the US food guides.

At your next Providence table, get the Mosey app, rate the calamari by name and save it to a list.