Pork Roll Origins in Trenton: Taylor Ham Explained

Pork roll origins in Trenton go back to the 1850s, when a local businessman is said to have created a spiced, smoked pork product that became a New Jersey staple, still griddled for breakfast sandwiches today. The meat has two names, pork roll in the south and Taylor ham in the north, and the argument between them is permanent.

What are the pork roll origins in Trenton?

The commonly repeated account credits John Taylor, a Trenton man, with developing the product in the 1850s, and says it was sold under his name. A company called Taylor Provisions later became the best-known maker. The product is a cured, seasoned, finely ground pork, formed into a roll and often smoked, sliced thin and cooked on a griddle until the edges crisp.

Tellings differ on the exact year, but what is not disputed is the product's reach: by the twentieth century it was a standard breakfast item at New Jersey diners, and exiles from the state still order it by mail. The trade name and the generic name have lived side by side ever since, and a court case over who may use which word is part of the lore.

Taylor ham or pork roll: which is it?

Both are used, depending on where you grew up. In North Jersey and the New York area, people say Taylor ham, after the brand. In South Jersey and around Trenton, people say pork roll. Neither word is wrong, and the argument is conducted with a mixture of good humor and mock fury. A diner in Trenton will understand either, and may tease you for the one you choose.

For the state-wide picture, the pork roll, egg and cheese guide explains the sandwich.

How do you cook pork roll?

Slice it thin, about as thick as a pencil. Cut a few slits around the edge so the slices do not curl as they cook, which is the standard trick. Fry in a pan or on a griddle until browned and crisp at the edges, turning once. It takes a few minutes. The fat does the work, so no oil is needed. Serve it hot.

Some cooks grill it, bake it or microwave it, but the griddle gives the best texture and the most flavor.

What is a pork roll, egg and cheese?

The state's signature breakfast sandwich: slices of griddled pork roll with a fried or scrambled egg and a slice of American cheese on a kaiser roll or a hard roll, often with salt, pepper and ketchup. It is eaten at diners, delis and breakfast counters across New Jersey, and the sandwich is a popular order on the way to work. The roll, the freshness of the egg and the crisp edges of the pork roll make the difference.

Where do you find pork roll in Trenton?

At diners and delis across the city and its neighbors, on breakfast menus and lunch menus. Many places serve it as a sandwich, a platter or an addition to eggs. Ask whether the pork roll is sliced to order and what brand the kitchen uses, though not every kitchen will say.

A booth at a diner is the best place to order one.

How do you eat pork roll as a visitor?

With an open mind. The taste is salty, smoky and a little sweet, similar to a thick-sliced ham but its own thing. Try it on a sandwich first, with egg and cheese, before ordering it on its own. If you are traveling with children, they often like it because it resembles bacon. If you do not eat pork, ask for another breakfast sandwich.

Order it once, then decide whether you are in the pork roll or Taylor ham camp. Pork roll also appears in other forms: sliced into a sandwich with a fried egg, tucked into a breakfast burrito, chopped into hash or served as a side with pancakes. Each way shows a different side of its salty, smoky character, and each is a fair test of a kitchen. If you meet someone from the other camp, be gracious. The argument is the fun part.

How can tags and ratings help?

In the Mosey app, you can rate a place with stars and add a dish, such as a pork roll, egg and cheese, with its own rating. Tags such as Diner, Breakfast and Quick Service describe the place, and a diner can look for them in the Find sheet. A tag is a note from someone who ate there. If friends came, tag them and they can add their own rating of the same sandwich.

Where next in Trenton?

The Trenton tomato pie guide covers the city's other famous food, and the lunch near the State House guide covers diners and delis downtown. The US food guides hold the rest of the country.

This is one of many New Jersey guides, and the Food in New Jersey page lists them all by town.

On your next morning in New Jersey, open the Mosey app, rate your pork roll sandwich by the dish and note whether you say Taylor ham or pork roll in a list you can share.