Flagstaff, Sedona and the Verde Valley: northern Arizona food and wine

Northern Arizona is a different world from Phoenix. Flagstaff sits at about 7,000 feet, among ponderosa pines, with cold winters and cool summers. Sedona, about 30 miles south, is surrounded by red rock cliffs and is one of the most visited small towns in the state. The Verde Valley, below them, has a young wine industry. A trip that links the three makes a good food weekend, as long as you plan for crowds in Sedona and the seasons in Flagstaff.

What is Flagstaff like for eating?

Flagstaff is a college and mountain town, home to Northern Arizona University, and the historic downtown around Beaver Street and Route 66 is its dining center. Local guides list brewpubs, bagel shops, coffee shops, wine bars and casual restaurants. Breweries, bagel shops and historic hotels downtown serve pizza, sandwiches, coffee and cocktails. Restaurants change, so check which are open. Flagstaff also has coffee roasters and bakeries that serve breakfast, which helps if you are fueling up for a hike.

Check hours, since a number of Flagstaff businesses close earlier than in a big city, and some cut hours in winter. Flagstaff's altitude and cold mean hot soup, green chile stew and a warm drink are popular. Snow can affect travel from November to March.

How do you handle Sedona's crowds?

Sedona draws millions of visitors, and its restaurants are busy. Weekends, spring break and the cooler months are the busiest, with long waits for popular tables and parking that is difficult. Book dinner in advance, eat an early lunch, and consider a weekday visit. If you are staying overnight, ask your hotel about shuttle services and local rules about parking at trailheads, since some roads have limited spaces and permit requirements. Many Sedona restaurants have patios with views of the red rocks, which are hard to reserve at sunset. Prices tend to be higher than in Flagstaff because of tourism.

Sedona has a mix of Southwestern, American and international restaurants, plus bakeries and coffee shops. Ask for local ingredients on the menu, such as Arizona produce, lamb or prickly pear. A trolley or shuttle service in some seasons helps with the parking problem, so check what is available.

What is the Verde Valley wine region?

The Verde Valley, in Yavapai County about an hour southwest of Flagstaff and near Sedona, is Arizona's best-known wine area along with the southeast of the state. Cornville and Page Springs are the core of the region. Page Springs has wineries with tasting rooms and grounds suited to a picnic. Cove Mesa Vineyard has a large tasting room near Page Springs Road. In nearby Old Town Cottonwood, tasting rooms line the main street, and in Clarkdale another winery operates. The Sedona Chamber lists guided wine tours, and there is a Verde Valley Wine Trail.

Many tasting rooms ask for reservations on weekends. Plan three or four stops, eat in between, and arrange a driver or tour, because the roads are rural. Many Arizona winemakers also work with grapes grown in the southeast of the state, so the label may name a different county from the tasting room. Ask the person pouring where the grapes came from.

Which season should you choose?

Season	Flagstaff	Sedona	Verde Valley
Spring	Cool, some snow melting	Very busy	Pleasant for tastings
Summer	Cool escape from Phoenix heat	Hot days, busy	Hot; tastings in the evening
Fall	Aspens turning, busy	Busy and comfortable	Harvest
Winter	Snow and skiing	Quieter, mild	Quiet, some closures

Many Phoenix residents drive north in summer to escape the heat, which fills Flagstaff's restaurants on weekends.

How far apart are they?

Flagstaff to Sedona is about 30 miles, but the scenic drive through Oak Creek Canyon is slow and busy in season, with long delays on weekends. Sedona to Cottonwood is about 20 miles. The Grand Canyon's South Rim is about 80 miles north of Flagstaff, so many travelers link a canyon day with a night in Flagstaff. Allow more time than you expect, particularly in snow or on a holiday weekend.

What can you eat at altitude?

Flagstaff has a strong coffee, brewery and bakery culture, and menus lean on hearty, warming food. Look for green chile dishes, burgers, pizza, bagels and craft beer. Sedona's menus often highlight Southwestern flavors such as chile, corn and beans. In the Verde Valley, look for wine-friendly food: cheese plates, charcuterie and bistro dishes. Drink water, since altitude and dry air dehydrate you faster, and alcohol hits harder at elevation.

What about the check and the wage rules?

Arizona charges a Transaction Privilege Tax on restaurant meals, which is added to the check, and city rates vary. Tipping is typically 18 to 20 percent at table-service restaurants. Flagstaff has its own local minimum wage, higher than the state's, and the city does not allow a tip credit, so servers there are paid the full local wage before tips. Customs still call for a tip. On Mosey you can keep lists of the places you want to try in each town, and rate the dishes you order.

Before you set out, decide how many stops the day can hold. The distances between Flagstaff, Sedona and the Verde Valley look short on a map but add up on winding roads, and a late lunch can push dinner past the point where kitchens in small towns are still serving. Phone ahead for hours, because many small places keep their own schedules, and carry water and snacks on any drive. If you plan to taste wine, name a driver before you leave and leave room in the day for a slow meal between tastings.

Eating your way across Arizona? The Food in Arizona page links every town we cover.

More guides to read next:

• Scottsdale, Tempe, Mesa and Gilbert: eating in the Valley of the Sun
• Hartford and West Hartford food guide: Franklin Avenue to the Center
• Mystic and the Connecticut shoreline: lobster rolls and clam shacks

More in the US food guides and the ranked lists of places.