Thunder Bay food guide: Persians, Finnish pancakes and the Country Market

Thunder Bay sits on the north shore of Lake Superior, farther from Toronto than many Canadian cities are from the Atlantic. Its food reflects the people who settled there: Finnish, Italian, Ukrainian, Indigenous and many others. A visitor can eat a pastry that is found almost nowhere else, taste Finnish pancakes with a history behind them, and visit a market that has become a local gathering place.

What is a Persian?

A Persian is a Thunder Bay pastry, a flat, round, doughnut-like bun covered in pink icing, made with strawberry or raspberry flavour. It is sweet, soft and easy to eat in the car. Bakeries in Thunder Bay sell them, and people take boxes home as souvenirs. Despite the name, it has no connection with Persia. If you want to try one, ask a local bakery what is fresh that day, and eat it soon after you buy it.

What is the story of Finnish pancakes in Thunder Bay?

Finnish settlers shaped Thunder Bay's food culture. A famous Finnish restaurant was founded in 1918 as a co-operative in the basement of the Finnish Labour Temple, serving cheap meals to Finnish workers from the bush camps and the docks. It became famous for its thin Finnish pancakes, which were eaten with butter, syrup or berries. The restaurant closed in 2020 and later suffered fire damage during renovations. After that, a Finnish co-operative began serving the pancakes again at the Thunder Bay Country Market. Whether the original restaurant has reopened is something to check before you travel.

What is the Thunder Bay Country Market?

It is the city's main farmers' market, where you can find produce, baking, meat, preserves and prepared food, and, according to local reports, Finnish pancakes. Market days and hours are set by the market itself, so check the schedule before you go.

What else should you eat?

• Fresh Lake Superior fish. Whitefish and lake trout are regional staples, sometimes smoked or served fried.
• Italian food. The city has a large Italian community, and you will find Italian bakeries, delis and restaurants.
• Pierogi and Ukrainian baking. Look for community events and bakery counters.
• Wild blueberries and berry baking. In summer, roadside stands and markets sell local berries.

When should you visit?

Summer is the busiest season, with long days, markets and festivals. Autumn brings fall colours and harvest food. Winter is cold, with a loyal local food community and cosy interiors. Check hours in the off-season, because small businesses may reduce their days.

How do you get there?

Thunder Bay has an airport with flights from Toronto and other cities. The drive from Winnipeg is long, and the drive from Toronto is much longer, so most visitors fly. Once there, a car is useful, because the city is spread out.

What is a good day in Thunder Bay?

Start at a bakery for a Persian and a coffee. Spend the morning on the waterfront or at Kakabeka Falls, a short drive west. Have lunch at a restaurant that serves Lake Superior fish, and visit the market if it is open. In the evening, find a pub or an Italian restaurant, and ask locals what they would order.

How do you pay and tip?

Ontario adds 13 percent HST to restaurant meals, and 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax bill is a normal tip at a sit-down place. Market vendors may prefer cash.

How do you order at a Thunder Bay bakery?

Walk in and ask what is fresh. The case may hold Persians, fruit squares, sweet breads and loaves. Bakeries sell by the piece or by the box, and a box of six is common. Ask whether the pastry contains nuts or dairy if you have a restriction. A Persian is best the day it is made, as the bun dries out quickly, so eat it that afternoon or freeze it.

What else is worth a detour?

The waterfront, the Sleeping Giant across the bay and Kakabeka Falls give the region its scenery, and a hike or a drive works up an appetite. Plan your meals around daylight, especially in winter, when the days are short. Ask your hotel where locals eat their weekday lunch, because the best choice is often a small family-run place that takes no bookings.

Mosey is built to record exactly this kind of local find, one dish at a time, so a good Persian can be rated and shared.

More guides to read next:

• Old Strathcona and Whyte Avenue, Edmonton: the Saturday market and where to eat
• Halifax food guide: the Seaport Farmers' Market, the donair and the waterfront
• Lunenburg and the Annapolis Valley: seafood, orchards and Nova Scotia wine

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.