Toutons in St. John's: Newfoundland's fried bread and where to find it

Toutons may be the most welcoming thing on any Newfoundland menu. They are simple: bread dough, pulled into pieces and fried in a pan until golden and puffed, then served hot with butter and a pour of molasses. They are crisp at the edges, soft inside and impossible to eat only one of. If you try a single traditional dish in St. John's, many locals would tell you to make it this one.

What exactly are toutons?

Toutons are pieces of bread dough, usually the same white dough used for a home loaf, flattened and fried in a hot pan. Traditionally they were fried in pork fat, often rendered from salt pork, which gives them a savoury richness. Today many cooks use butter or oil instead.

They are served hot, typically with:

• Butter, melting on top
• Molasses, the classic Newfoundland sweetener
• Sometimes scrunchions, the crispy bits of fried salt pork fat
• Sometimes maple syrup or partridgeberry jam, as modern twists

Where do toutons come from?

Toutons grew out of household baking. On bread-making days, a bit of the risen dough was pulled off and fried for breakfast, a treat while the loaves were still in the oven. Molasses was a staple in Newfoundland kitchens for a long time, so it became the natural topping.

When do people eat toutons?

Mostly at breakfast and brunch. You will find them on many café and diner menus in St. John's, sometimes as a side, sometimes as the main event with eggs, beans, bologna or bacon. Some places serve them all day.

Where can you find toutons in St. John's?

Look in a few kinds of places:

• Breakfast diners and cafés, where toutons are often a regular menu item
• Brunch restaurants, which sometimes give them a modern twist
• Restaurants serving traditional Newfoundland food
• Markets and bakeries, where you can sometimes buy dough to fry at home

Menus change, so check what is on before you go, especially if you are making a special trip.

How should you eat toutons?

Hot, straight from the pan. Spread butter on top, let it melt, then pour molasses over. Eat with a knife and fork or, more often, with your hands. If they come with scrunchions, scatter them on top for crunch and salt.

Do not let them sit. Toutons are at their best in the first few minutes.

How are toutons different from other fried bread?

Many cultures fry dough: beignets, bannock, fry bread, doughnuts. Toutons are closest to a plain fried bread, without sugar in the dough and without a deep fryer. The molasses is what makes them distinctively Newfoundland.

Can you make toutons at home?

Yes, easily. All you need is bread dough (homemade or store-bought), a heavy pan, a bit of fat and some molasses. Pull off pieces about the size of your palm, flatten them, and fry on medium heat for a few minutes on each side until golden and cooked through. Serve immediately.

What is molasses and why is it on everything?

Molasses is the thick, dark syrup left over from refining sugar. For a long time it was a cheap, everyday sweetener in Newfoundland, arriving by ship and stored in every pantry, and it found its way into bread, cakes, beans and, of course, toutons. Its flavour is deep and slightly bitter, nothing like maple syrup, and it suits the salty richness of fried dough perfectly. If you have never tried it, a touton is the best introduction. Many grocery stores in St. John's sell it if you want to take some home.

Are toutons a good choice for children?

Usually, yes. Children tend to love them, since a warm piece of fried bread with something sweet on top is an easy sell at any age. Ask for the molasses on the side if your child is wary of new flavours, and check what fat they were fried in if anyone in your family has dietary restrictions.

What is a good touton breakfast in St. John's?

A classic plate might include toutons, eggs, baked beans and a slice of fried bologna or some bacon, with tea or coffee. It is a hearty start to a day of walking the hills of downtown or climbing Signal Hill.

What should you drink with toutons?

Toutons are rich, sweet and filling, so the drink matters.

• Strong black tea, the traditional Newfoundland choice, often with milk and sugar.
• Coffee, at any café that serves a cooked breakfast.
• A glass of milk for kids, to balance the molasses.

If you are having toutons as part of a full breakfast, with eggs, beans, fried bologna or fish cakes, plan to share or to skip lunch. Many people find one or two toutons with molasses is plenty on their own.

How do you remember your favourite toutons?

Everybody in St. John's has an opinion on who makes the best toutons. Mosey lets you rate the dishes you actually ordered, with photos, and keep a list of breakfast spots to try, so you can form your own opinion.

More guides to read next:

• Brunch in St. John's: toutons, fish cakes and weekend lines
• Traditional Newfoundland dishes to try in St. John's
• Eating out in St. John's in winter: comfort food, storm days and cozy rooms

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.