Eating out in St. John's in winter: comfort food, storm days and cozy rooms

Winter in St. John's is not for the faint-hearted. Snow, freezing rain and wind roll in off the Atlantic, the days are short, and a big storm can shut the city down. Locals remember the blizzard of January 2020, when a state of emergency closed businesses for days. But winter is also when St. John's food is at its most comforting, the restaurants are calmer and locals take back their favourite tables.

What should you eat in St. John's in winter?

Winter is the season for the dishes Newfoundland food was built on:

• Seafood chowder and hearty soups, such as pea soup
• Jiggs dinner, the Sunday cooked dinner of salt beef and vegetables
• Fish and chips, with dressing and gravy for extra warmth
• Toutons with molasses at breakfast
• Stews and braises at restaurants cooking with local ingredients
• Berry desserts, from jams and frozen berries picked in the fall

Are restaurants in St. John's open in winter?

Most are, but hours change. Many restaurants and cafés:

• Shorten their hours in the quietest months
• Close one or two days a week, often Mondays or Tuesdays
• Take a short break after the holidays

Always check current hours before you go, especially early in the week.

What happens to restaurants on storm days?

On a big storm day, the city can come to a stop. Roads close or become hard to travel, and many businesses close early or do not open at all. If a storm is forecast:

1. Check before leaving, since a place may close with little notice.
2. Eat close to home or your hotel.
3. Stock up on snacks in case you are snowed in.
4. Be patient with delivery and takeout, which may be slower or paused.

The day after a storm is often a busy one, as everybody wants to get out of the house.

What are the best cozy places to eat in winter?

Look for:

• Pubs with a warm atmosphere and hearty food
• Cafés with steamy windows, soup and baking
• Restaurants in old buildings downtown, with thick walls and small rooms
• Places with a fireplace, which feel especially welcome on a cold night

Is winter a good time to visit St. John's for food?

Yes, if you like quiet. There are no cruise crowds, booking a table is easier, and locals have time to talk. It is also a good time for special dinners, kitchen parties and cooking classes, which many venues run in the quieter months.

How do you get around downtown in winter?

Carefully. Downtown St. John's is steep, and the hills can be icy. Wear boots with grip, take your time on the slopes, and use taxis for longer trips. Walking between restaurants is part of the charm in summer; in winter, plan shorter hops.

What is the St. John's Farmers' Market like in winter?

The St. John's Farmers' Market runs on Saturdays year round at 245 Freshwater Road. In winter it is a warm place to spend a morning, with food vendors, baking, preserves and winter vegetables.

What is pea soup and why is it a winter staple?

Pea soup in Newfoundland is a thick, golden soup made from yellow split peas, often cooked with salt beef or a ham bone, along with carrots, turnip and onion. It is cheap, filling and warming, and many families make a big pot on a Saturday. Some versions come with small dumplings, called doughboys, dropped in at the end. In winter you will often find it as a soup of the day at cafés and diners, served with a roll or homemade bread. On a raw February afternoon, it is hard to beat.

What about Christmas in St. John's?

December is festive and busy, with office parties, family dinners and Christmas markets. Restaurants fill up on Fridays and Saturdays, so book ahead. Look for seasonal baking, such as fruitcake and other holiday treats, and traditional dinners. Some people still keep the custom of mummering, visiting neighbours in disguise during the Christmas season.

What should you wear for a winter night out in St. John's?

St. John's winters are not always the coldest in Canada, but they are wet, windy and unpredictable, with snow, freezing rain and fog all possible in one week.

• A waterproof, windproof coat, because the wind off the Atlantic cuts through.
• Boots with real grip, since the steep downtown streets get icy.
• A hat and gloves, especially on George Street late at night.
• Layers you can take off in a warm pub.

Check the forecast before heading out, and if a storm is coming, call ahead, since some places close early.

How do you keep track of your winter favourites?

Winter is when you find the places that feel like home. Mosey lets you rate the places you ate at and the dishes you ordered, with photos, follow friends to see where they go on cold nights, and keep a list of cozy spots for the next storm.

More guides to read next:

• Brunch in St. John's: toutons, fish cakes and weekend lines
• Cheap eats in St. John's: how to eat well on a budget
• Eating around Churchill Square and Memorial University in St. John's

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.