What is a screech-in? Newfoundland's famous welcome explained

Spend a few nights in St. John's and somebody will ask whether you have been screeched in yet. The screech-in is a light-hearted ceremony that makes a visitor an honorary Newfoundlander. It involves a shot of rum, a few words of local dialect, and, famously, kissing a fish. It is silly, warm and very Newfoundland.

What happens at a screech-in?

Every host does it a little differently, but the usual pattern goes like this:

1. A host, often dressed in a sou'wester (the yellow fisherman's rain hat and coat), gathers the people being screeched in.
2. The host asks whether they want to become honorary Newfoundlanders, and tells a few stories and jokes in the local dialect.
3. Each person eats a small local treat, which varies by venue.
4. Each person kisses a cod, usually a real (and very dead) one, or sometimes a replica.
5. The host asks a question in dialect about whether you are a screecher (the exact wording varies by venue), and the inductees answer with a traditional reply.
6. Everyone drinks a shot of Screech, a Newfoundland rum.
7. Each person gets a certificate, and the crowd cheers.

What is Screech?

Screech is the name of a well-known Newfoundland rum. Rum has a long history in the province, tied to the old trade that carried salt cod south to the Caribbean and brought rum and molasses back. The name has become part of local folklore.

Where does the screech-in tradition come from?

The ceremony as visitors know it developed in the twentieth century, growing out of older customs of welcoming outsiders. Its exact origins are debated, and stories differ, which suits a tradition that is mostly about humour and hospitality. Over time, pubs and venues in St. John's made it a regular event for visitors.

Where can you get screeched in?

Some pubs in downtown St. John's, especially around George Street, hold screech-ins regularly, and tour operators and some hotels arrange them too. Times change, so ask at your accommodation or check with a pub before you go.

Do you have to drink alcohol to get screeched in?

No. Many hosts are happy to offer a non-alcoholic alternative if you ask, and the ceremony is really about joining in. If you do not drink, say so quietly to the host before it starts.

What do you need to know before a screech-in?

• You must be of legal drinking age to take part with alcohol. In Newfoundland and Labrador, that is 19.
• It is meant to be fun. Nobody is mocking you; the jokes are part of the welcome.
• Kissing the cod is optional, though most people do it for the photo.
• Pace yourself if it happens late in an evening on George Street.

What should you eat before or after a screech-in?

A screech-in often happens in the evening at a pub, so eat beforehand. A plate of fish and chips, a bowl of chowder or some chips, dressing and gravy is the perfect base for a night out in St. John's.

What does the Newfoundland dialect in a screech-in mean?

Newfoundland English is one of the most distinctive ways of speaking in the English-speaking world, shaped by the West Country of England and the southeast of Ireland, where many settlers came from, and by centuries of relative isolation. Words and grammar that sound strange to visitors ("Where you to?" for "Where are you?", "b'y" for "boy" or simply as a friendly address) are everyday speech for many people. The host at a screech-in leans into it for fun, and you are expected to stumble over the reply. Nobody minds; the stumbling is part of the welcome.

Is the screech-in respectful of Newfoundland culture?

It is a playful tradition, and many Newfoundlanders enjoy watching visitors take part. Like any tradition, it works best when approached with good humour. Listen to the stories, try the dialect and take the certificate home with pride.

What other Newfoundland traditions should visitors know?

• Kitchen parties, informal gatherings with food and traditional music
• Regatta Day, the summer holiday decided by the wind
• Jiggs dinner, the Sunday cooked dinner
• Mummering, a Christmas tradition of visiting neighbours in disguise

What should you say at a screech-in?

At a screech-in, the host asks each newcomer a question in Newfoundland dialect (the exact wording varies by venue) and expects a set reply. The traditional answer is:

"Indeed I is, me ol' cock, and long may your big jib draw."

Roughly, it means "Yes I am, my old friend, and may your sails always be full," a wish for good luck at sea. You do not need to learn it in advance; the host will coach you through it, and getting it slightly wrong is part of the fun. Visitors leave with a certificate and a story to tell.

How do you remember your night out in St. John's?

A night out often includes a great late meal you will want to remember. Mosey lets you rate the places you ate at and the dishes you ordered, with photos, and keep a list of places to go back to.

More guides to read next:

• Brunch in St. John's: toutons, fish cakes and weekend lines
• Seafood in St. John's: cod, mussels, crab, lobster and where to eat them
• Signal Hill and a good meal: planning a walking day in St. John's

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.