Seafood in St. John's: cod, mussels, crab, lobster and where to eat them

Stand on Signal Hill and look east, and there is nothing between you and Europe but the North Atlantic. That ocean has fed Newfoundland for centuries, and seafood is still at the heart of eating well in St. John's. Whether you want a plate of fish and chips, a bowl of chowder or a full seafood dinner, the city delivers.

What seafood is St. John's known for?

Cod comes first. It is the fish of Newfoundland, served fried, pan-seared, baked, in fish cakes, in chowder and as salt fish in traditional dishes. After cod, look for:

• Mussels, often farmed in Newfoundland waters, steamed in wine, garlic or cream
• Snow crab, sweet and delicate
• Lobster, in season, often as a lobster roll or a whole dinner
• Scallops, pan-seared or in batter
• Salmon, both farmed and wild
• Shrimp, the small cold-water kind, often in salads and sandwiches

When is seafood in season in St. John's?

Seasons vary by species and by year, so ask your server what is fresh today. As a rough guide:

• Cod is available year round, though fresh local cod is easiest to find in summer and fall.
• Crab and lobster have seasons that often run through late spring and summer.
• Mussels are farmed and available most of the year.
• Capelin, a small fish, comes ashore in large numbers in early summer, an event locals call the capelin run. Fried capelin turns up on some menus then.

What are the classic seafood dishes to try?

1. Fish and chips with cod
2. Seafood chowder, creamy and packed with fish and shellfish
3. Fish cakes, made with salt cod and potato
4. Pan-fried cod with scrunchions
5. Cod tongues, for the adventurous
6. Steamed mussels
7. A lobster roll in season

How do you choose a good seafood restaurant in St. John's?

A few signs of a good place:

• The menu changes with what is fresh, and staff can tell you where the fish came from.
• Specials are written up daily.
• The menu is not too long. A short list cooked well beats a huge list of frozen options.
• Locals eat there, especially at lunch.

Where do people eat seafood in and around St. John's?

Downtown has the widest choice, from casual chip shops to restaurants serving modern dishes from local ingredients. Quidi Vidi Village, a short trip from downtown, has a few well-known places in a dramatic harbour setting. And the outports nearby, such as Petty Harbour, offer seafood by the water, which is hard to beat on a fine day.

What about seafood chowder?

Almost every restaurant has its own chowder, and many locals judge a place by it. A good one is creamy but not gluey, generous with fish and shellfish, and seasoned with care. It is the perfect lunch on a cold, foggy day, which in St. John's can happen in any month.

Is seafood in St. John's expensive?

It ranges widely. Fish and chips and chowder are usually good value. Lobster, crab and scallops cost more, especially at dinner. Lunch menus and specials are often the best way to eat well for less. Remember that the 15 percent HST and a tip are added to the menu price.

How do you eat seafood safely with an allergy?

Tell your server at the start, and be specific: a shellfish allergy and a fish allergy are different, and many kitchens in St. John's handle both in the same space and the same fryer. Ask whether chips are fried in the same oil as battered fish or shellfish, and whether chowders or sauces contain shellfish stock. A good restaurant will answer clearly and will tell you honestly if it cannot guarantee anything. If you have a serious allergy, eating at a place with a short, clearly labelled menu is often safer than a long one.

What is the capelin roll?

Each summer, usually in late June or July, capelin, small silvery fish, come ashore on Newfoundland beaches in huge numbers to spawn. Locals call it the capelin roll, and people gather on beaches with buckets and nets to scoop them up.

The capelin matter to the whole coast: they are food for cod, seabirds and whales, which is why whale-watching is best in the same weeks. People fry, dry or smoke them, and some restaurants serve them in season. The timing depends on water temperature and changes from year to year, so locals follow reports on social media and the radio to know when the roll has started.

What if you do not eat seafood?

You will still eat well. Most restaurants have meat, vegetarian and vegan options, and the city has plenty of cafés, pubs and restaurants serving food from around the world.

How do you keep track of the best seafood you ate?

Seafood is where the difference between good and great really shows. Mosey lets you rate the places you actually ate at and the dishes you ordered, with photos, see where friends you follow went, and keep a list of seafood spots to try on your next visit.

More guides to read next:

• Brunch in St. John's: toutons, fish cakes and weekend lines
• Signal Hill and a good meal: planning a walking day in St. John's
• Tipping and the 15% HST in St. John's: how to read a restaurant bill

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.