Beyond dim sum: a guide to regional Chinese food in Vancouver and Richmond

For decades, "Chinese food" in Vancouver mostly meant Cantonese food, brought by early immigrants from Guangdong and later by a large community from Hong Kong. Today, Metro Vancouver has restaurants representing almost every region of China, especially in Richmond and Burnaby. Each regional cuisine has its own flavours, techniques and signature dishes, and knowing the difference transforms how you order.

What are the main regional Chinese cuisines in Vancouver?

Cuisine	Flavour profile	Dishes to look for
Cantonese	Fresh, delicate, seafood-focused	Dim sum, steamed fish, roast duck, wonton noodles
Sichuan	Bold, spicy and numbing	Mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, boiled fish in chili oil
Hunan	Hot, sour, smoky, no numbing	Chili-steamed fish head, smoked pork, stir-fried peppers
Shanghainese	Sweet, rich, braised	Xiaolongbao, red-braised pork, drunken chicken
Northern (Beijing and Dongbei)	Wheat-based, hearty	Hand-made dumplings, Peking duck, pickled cabbage stews
Xinjiang and Uyghur	Lamb, cumin, chili	Lamb skewers, hand-pulled noodles, big plate chicken
Taiwanese	Comforting, sweet-savoury	Beef noodle soup, braised pork rice, popcorn chicken
Hakka	Rustic, salted and preserved	Salt-baked chicken, stuffed tofu

What is Cantonese food and what should you order?

Cantonese cooking prizes freshness and balance. Seafood is often kept alive in tanks until it is cooked, and steaming is a favourite technique. Beyond dim sum, order a whole steamed fish with ginger and scallion, wok-fried greens with garlic, roast meats such as barbecue pork and crispy pork belly, and wonton noodle soup. Cantonese restaurants in Richmond and Chinatown are some of the best in North America.

What does "mala" mean in Sichuan food?

Mala means "numbing and spicy". The numbing comes from Sichuan peppercorns, which make your lips tingle; the spice comes from dried chilies and chili oil. Classic dishes include mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, kung pao chicken (the real one, with dried chilies), and fish or beef simmered in a fiery red broth. Ask for a mild version if you are new to it; a good kitchen can adjust.

What are xiaolongbao?

Xiaolongbao are Shanghainese soup dumplings: thin-skinned dumplings filled with pork and a savoury broth that turns to liquid when steamed. To eat one, lift it gently onto a spoon, poke a small hole to let the soup out, sip the soup, then eat the dumpling with a little black vinegar and ginger. Do not bite straight in; the soup is very hot.

Where can you find regional Chinese food near Vancouver?

Richmond has the widest range, especially along No. 3 Road, Alexandra Road and in the malls near the Canada Line. Burnaby, around Metrotown and Crystal Mall, has many regional specialists, including food court stalls. Chinatown in Vancouver remains strongest for Cantonese bakeries, barbecue and classic restaurants. Downtown and Kingsway add Sichuan, northern and noodle specialists.

What is Northern Chinese and Xinjiang food?

Northern Chinese cooking is built on wheat rather than rice, so expect dumplings, noodles, buns and flatbreads. Xinjiang, in the far northwest, adds the influence of Central Asia, with lamb, cumin and chili at the centre. Dishes to look for:

• Jiaozi, boiled or pan-fried dumplings, often ordered by the dozen.
• Scallion pancakes, flaky and pan-fried.
• Lamb skewers with cumin, grilled and spiced, a classic with a cold drink.
• Big plate chicken, a Xinjiang stew of chicken, potatoes and peppers, served over wide hand-pulled noodles.
• Hand-pulled noodles in beef broth or stir-fried with lamb.
• Northeastern dishes such as sweet and sour fried pork (guo bao rou) and hearty stews.

Richmond and Burnaby have the most of these restaurants, often in strip malls and food courts, and they are a good, filling alternative to the more familiar Cantonese menus.

How do you order at a regional Chinese restaurant?

1. Order to share, family-style, with one dish per person plus rice.
2. Balance the table: something spicy, something mild, a vegetable, a soup, a starch.
3. Ask for the specialties; many restaurants have dishes on the wall or a separate menu in Chinese that staff will explain.
4. Look at what other tables are eating.
5. Do not over-order; portions are often large.

What is hand-pulled noodle food?

Hand-pulled noodles, or la mian, are stretched and folded by hand from a single piece of dough until they become long, springy strands, often while you watch through a kitchen window. They are a specialty of northwest China, especially Lanzhou, where they are served in a clear beef broth with radish, chili oil and cilantro. Several noodle shops in Richmond, Burnaby and downtown Vancouver make them, and watching the noodles being pulled is half the fun.

Is regional Chinese food good for vegetarians?

Many dishes are vegetable-based, such as dry-fried green beans, eggplant in garlic sauce, mapo tofu without meat and stir-fried greens. But meat-based stocks, oyster sauce and lard are common, so ask. Buddhist vegetarian restaurants, found in Richmond and elsewhere, are fully meat-free.

How much does it cost and do you tip?

Regional Chinese restaurants range from very affordable noodle shops and food court stalls to expensive seafood banquets. BC menu prices do not include tax: 5 percent GST on food and 10 percent PST on alcohol. Tip 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax amount at table service.

With so many regional styles, it helps to remember what you ordered and where. On Mosey you can rate the dishes as well as the places, with photos, and see what friends you follow ordered at that Sichuan place in Richmond.

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