Corso Italia and St. Clair West, Toronto: espresso bars, bakeries and Sunday lunch

St. Clair Avenue West, between Dufferin Street and Lansdowne Avenue, is the heart of Corso Italia, a neighbourhood settled by Italian families after the Second World War. It is a different pace from College Street's Little Italy: more residential, with a long main street of bakeries, espresso bars, butchers and delis, and a place where you can still hear Italian spoken on the sidewalk. Football matches bring the street to life, and so does a sunny Saturday morning.

What is Corso Italia?

It is a neighbourhood and a business improvement area on St. Clair West. The name is Italian for "Italy Avenue" in the sense of a main promenade. The street has been a gathering place for generations of Toronto Italians, and it keeps that role today even as Portuguese, Brazilian, Latin American and other communities have joined it.

What should you eat?

• Espresso and cornetti. Stand at the counter for a short espresso and a filled croissant, the Italian breakfast.
• Bakeries. Look for focaccia, panini, cannoli and almond biscotti. Bakeries sell by weight or by piece.
• Delis and butchers. Cured meats, cheeses, olives, pasta and sauces make an easy picnic or a gift basket.
• Gelato. Gelaterias open for the afternoon and evening, and the summer line stretches onto the sidewalk.
• Sit-down meals. Family restaurants serve pasta, grilled fish and veal. Sunday lunch is a long, social meal.

When is the best time to go?

Saturday morning is when the street is busiest with shoppers and cafés. On a match day for a big football tournament, bars and cafés fill with supporters. Sunday afternoon suits a long lunch. Many small shops close on Sunday or Monday, so check ahead.

How do you order at an Italian espresso bar?

Order at the counter, pay and drink standing, as many locals do. An espresso is a small, strong coffee. A cappuccino is traditionally a morning drink. If you want a longer coffee, ask for a caffè americano. Tip jars at the counter are optional.

Is the neighbourhood changing?

Yes. New cafés, restaurants and bakeries are opening alongside long-standing businesses, and the food mix is wider each year. That is part of what makes it interesting. Walk a few blocks past the main stretch to see what has opened.

How do you get there?

The 512 St. Clair streetcar runs along St. Clair West, and the subway stations at St. Clair West and Dufferin connect by bus. Driving is possible, but parking near the main strip is limited and metered.

How do you eat well on a budget?

Bakery lunches and sandwiches are the cheapest way to eat well. A coffee and a pastry at the counter costs far less than a sit-down breakfast. Delis sell lunch sandwiches stacked with meat and cheese.

What about dietary needs?

Italian food is friendly to vegetarians, and most restaurants have meat-free pasta and vegetable dishes. For gluten-free diets, ask in advance, since pasta and bread are central. Allergies need a direct conversation with the kitchen.

How do you pay and tip?

Cash is common at small counters, but cards are accepted at most places. Tip 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax bill at a table, and HST of 13 percent is added to menu prices.

How do you record a favourite?

When a counter makes the best porchetta sandwich you have had, write down which counter and when. Details help the next hungry person.

What does a good Saturday look like?

Take the 512 streetcar or the bus from St. Clair West station and start at the Dufferin end of the strip around 10 a.m. Have an espresso at the counter of a bar that is already busy. Walk west, stopping at a bakery for something to share and at a deli for bread, cheese and cured meat. Sit at a café or a gelateria and watch the street. In the evening, a family restaurant with a long menu and a table of regulars is the best end to the day.

What should you ask for at the deli counter?

Ask for a taste before you buy. Staff will usually cut a slice of a cured meat or offer a piece of cheese. Order by weight, and say how thin you want it sliced. Ask what is made in house and what arrives from a producer. For sandwiches, name the bread and the fillings you want, and ask if they can be made on the spot. Delis tend to be cash-friendly, but most take cards.

Mosey is built for those details, so a good panino can be found by the dish, not only by the name over the door.

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