Fish and chips in St. John's: cod, batter and dressing and gravy

Fish and chips is the dish most visitors want first in St. John's, and for good reason. Newfoundland was built on cod, and a piece of fresh cod in a light, crisp batter, with a pile of chips, is about as close to the heart of the place as a takeout meal gets. Locals have strong opinions about where it is done best, and almost all of them disagree.

What makes Newfoundland fish and chips different?

The fish is almost always cod, rather than the haddock or halibut you might find elsewhere. Good places use fresh cod in season and say so. The batter varies from shop to shop, from thin and crisp to thick and puffy.

Then there are the sides. In Newfoundland, chips often come with:

• Dressing, a bread stuffing seasoned with the dried herb Newfoundlanders simply call savoury
• Gravy
• Or both, as chips, dressing and gravy, a beloved local combination

A side of coleslaw and a wedge of lemon are standard. Some places add mushy peas.

Where do people get fish and chips in St. John's?

Fish and chips is everywhere, from long-standing chip shops to pubs, seafood restaurants and takeout counters. You will find it:

• Downtown, along Water Street and nearby, where pubs and restaurants serve it at lunch and dinner
• In takeout shops across the city, many of them family-run for decades
• In the outports nearby, such as Petty Harbour, where a meal by the water is part of the appeal
• In pubs, where it is a dependable choice

Every local seems to have a favourite, often a place their family has gone for years.

Is it worth driving out of the city for fish and chips?

For many people, yes. Petty Harbour, a fishing village about half an hour from St. John's, is a popular trip, and a family restaurant there is well known for its fish and chips. Eating cod beside the harbour it came from is a memorable meal. Check opening hours before you drive out, especially outside summer.

What should you look for in good fish and chips?

1. Fresh fish. It should be white, moist and flaky, not dry or grey.
2. Light, crisp batter that is not greasy.
3. Hot chips, cooked to order.
4. Fair portions. Many places offer a one-piece and a two-piece option.

A good shop is often busy with locals, which is a good sign.

What else is on a fish and chips menu?

Most places also serve:

• Cod tongues, for the adventurous
• Fish cakes
• Scallops, clams or shrimp in batter
• Burgers and chicken for those who do not eat fish

How does fried chicken fit in?

Newfoundland has a deep fondness for fried food beyond fish. A fried chicken chain that began in Newfoundland is something of a cultural institution, and its chicken and "taters" are part of growing up for many locals. It is not fish and chips, but it is part of the same comfort-food story.

Why is cod so important in Newfoundland?

For centuries, cod was the reason people came to Newfoundland and the reason they stayed. The fishery shaped the outports, the economy and the food, and salt cod was shipped around the Atlantic. In 1992 the federal government declared a moratorium on the northern cod fishery after stocks collapsed, a turning point that changed communities across the province. Cod is still caught and loved here, and ordering it in St. John's is a small way of connecting with a very long story. Ask where the fish came from; a good shop will be glad to tell you.

When is the best time for fish and chips?

Any time, but there is something special about fish and chips on a cold, foggy day or after a long walk on the East Coast Trail. Lunch tends to be busy downtown on cruise ship days in summer, so go early or late if you want a quieter meal.

What happened to the cod fishery?

Cod built Newfoundland, and the collapse of the northern cod stocks is a turning point in the province's history. In 1992 the federal government declared a moratorium on the commercial northern cod fishery after the stocks had fallen to a fraction of their former size. Tens of thousands of people in fishing and processing lost their work, and many outport communities never fully recovered.

That history is why cod still means so much here, and why a plate of cod and chips carries more weight in Newfoundland than it might elsewhere. Fishing continues under strict management, and much of the cod on menus today comes from regulated fisheries. Ask where the fish came from; many restaurants are proud to tell you.

How do you choose between all the options?

Look at what people actually ordered and how they rated it. A chip shop with consistent praise for its cod is a better bet than a pretty patio. Mosey lets you rate the dishes you ordered, with photos, see what people you follow had, and keep a list of fish and chips spots to try, so you can work through the city one piece of cod at a time.

More guides to read next:

• Brunch in St. John's: toutons, fish cakes and weekend lines
• Food festivals and summer events in St. John's: when to visit and what to eat
• George Street in St. John's: where to eat before, during and after a night out

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.