Cod tongues in St. John's: what they are and whether you should try them

Every visitor to St. John's hears about cod tongues sooner or later, usually from a local with a grin who wants to see your face when you find out what they are. They are one of the dishes that make Newfoundland food memorable, and they are much better than their name suggests.

What are cod tongues?

Despite the name, cod tongues are not the tongue of the fish. They are a small, soft piece of flesh from the throat of the cod, under the jaw. Each fish has only one, and they were traditionally cut out by children in fishing communities, who were allowed to keep or sell them.

They are usually cooked simply:

• Dusted in flour, sometimes seasoned
• Fried in a pan until golden
• Served with scrunchions, crispy bits of fried salt pork fat

Some restaurants serve them with a tartar sauce, a squeeze of lemon or a side of chips.

What do cod tongues taste like?

The flavour is mild and sweet, like the best part of a piece of cod. The texture is what surprises people: soft, rich and slightly gelatinous inside, with a crisp coating outside. Larger tongues can be quite chewy in the middle, while small ones are more delicate. People who love them really love them; people who do not usually object to the texture rather than the taste.

Where can you find cod tongues in St. John's?

They appear on menus at:

• Seafood restaurants, sometimes as a starter
• Fish and chip shops, often as a side or a plate of their own
• Pubs serving traditional food
• Restaurants focused on Newfoundland dishes

They are not on every menu, and some places only have them in season or when they can get them fresh. Ask, or check the menu before you go.

How should you order cod tongues for the first time?

If you are unsure, order a small plate as a starter to share. That way you can try one or two without committing to a full meal. Ask for scrunchions if they are not already included, since the crunch and salt are part of the classic version.

Are cod tongues the same as cod cheeks?

No. Cod cheeks are small rounds of muscle from the side of the head. They have a firmer, more scallop-like texture and are sometimes on menus too. If you find the tongues too soft, cheeks might suit you better.

Why do Newfoundlanders eat cod tongues?

Because nothing from a good fish was wasted. In a fishing economy where cod was everything, the tongues, cheeks and heads were all used. Children in outports would cut out tongues for pocket money, and families fried them at home as a treat. Today they are a link to that history, as well as a delicacy in their own right.

What other unusual Newfoundland foods are worth trying?

If cod tongues are your gateway, consider:

• Fish and brewis, salt cod and hard bread with scrunchions
• Toutons, fried bread dough with molasses
• Chips, dressing and gravy, a late-night comfort food
• Bakeapple jam, made from a rare golden berry

Can you cook cod tongues at home?

Yes, if you can find them. Some fish shops and supermarkets in St. John's sell fresh or frozen cod tongues, especially in season. Rinse and dry them well, dust them in seasoned flour, and fry them in a hot pan with a little fat until golden on both sides. For the full effect, fry a few cubes of salt pork first until crisp, use the rendered fat for the tongues, and scatter the scrunchions on top. Serve straight away with a wedge of lemon. Overcooked tongues turn tough, so keep an eye on them.

Should you try cod tongues if you do not like fish?

Possibly. The flavour is mild, and the frying makes them more like a fritter than a piece of fish. But if the texture of soft seafood bothers you, they may not win you over. Try one; you will at least have the story.

What are scrunchions?

Scrunchions often come with cod tongues, and they are worth understanding before you order. They are small cubes of salt pork fat, fried until crisp and golden, and sprinkled over fried cod tongues, fish and brewis, and other traditional dishes.

They add salt, crunch and richness, and many Newfoundlanders consider cod tongues incomplete without them. If you do not eat pork, ask for your cod tongues without scrunchions; most kitchens can leave them off. If you love them, you will start noticing them on other menus around the city.

How do you keep track of the dishes you were brave enough to try?

Cod tongues make a great story, and a better one if you remember where you had the good ones. Mosey lets you rate the dishes you actually ordered, with photos, and keep a list of the traditional dishes you still want to try.

More guides to read next:

• Brunch in St. John's: toutons, fish cakes and weekend lines
• A few hours in St. John's from a cruise ship: where and what to eat
• Day trips from St. John's with good food along the way

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.