Nanaimo, BC food guide: Nanaimo bars, the harbour and where to eat

Nanaimo is the second city most people reach on Vancouver Island, usually by ferry from the mainland, and a city that most visitors treat as a stop on the way somewhere else. It deserves a longer look at lunchtime. It is the home of the Nanaimo bar, it has a working harbour with a seawall, and it sits between the farms of the Cowichan Valley to the south and the Comox Valley to the north.

What is a Nanaimo bar?

A Nanaimo bar is a no-bake square with three layers: a base of chocolate, coconut and crumbs, a middle layer of custard-flavoured buttercream, and a top of chocolate. It is among the best-known desserts in Canada.

Its history is disputed. The city's own page says the mystery remains unresolved. Food historians point to an unbaked chocolate cake recipe in the 1940s and to the earliest printed "Nanaimo bars" recipe in a prize cookbook in the early 1950s, and an academic study suggested the bar may have come from members of a local hospital auxiliary. The story is part of why Nanaimo takes the bar seriously.

What is the Nanaimo Bar Trail?

The Nanaimo Bar Trail is a tourism map of cafés, bakeries and restaurants in the city that make their own version of the bar. Versions range from the classic square to ice cream, cheesecake and deep-fried varieties. The trail is a tourism project, so participants and their offerings change. Pick up a map or visit Tourism Nanaimo's page before you set out, and enjoy it as a snacking route.

Where do you eat in downtown Nanaimo?

Downtown Nanaimo is compact and walkable. The streets around Commercial Street and the waterfront have a mix of cafés, bakeries, pubs and restaurants. The harbour front has a seawall walk with views over the water to Newcastle Island and the Gabriola Island ferry terminal.

Nanaimo's food reflects the island: seafood from the nearby waters, produce from the Cowichan and Comox valleys and a growing number of craft breweries and cideries. Plan on a pub lunch, a harbour-side coffee or a casual dinner rather than a long tasting menu.

What is there to eat on the waterfront?

Nanaimo's harbour has a fishing and boating heritage. Fish and chips, chowder, and fresh seafood from boats are typical near the water. Seasonal items change, and local fisheries have different seasons, so ask a restaurant or fishmonger what is fresh that week.

Which farmers markets are near Nanaimo?

The Nanaimo region has seasonal and year-round markets, and the Cowichan Valley (Duncan) is about 40 minutes south, with a Saturday market and farms. The Comox Valley is about an hour north. See the guide to Vancouver Island farmers markets for how to plan around the ferries.

How do you reach Nanaimo, and what is the ferry food like?

BC Ferries runs sailings from the mainland to Nanaimo, including Departure Bay and Duke Point terminals. Ferries have cafeterias and snack bars, and some people find them good value for a sit-down breakfast. If you have a dietary restriction, bring your own food in case choices are limited.

What is Nanaimo like in winter?

Quieter. Some seasonal places close or shorten hours. The Nanaimo bar is a year-round treat, though, and cafés remain open. Check hours before you go, especially on statutory holidays.

How should you tip and pay in Nanaimo?

The same as elsewhere in British Columbia. Menu prices are before tax: 5 percent GST is added to food, and alcohol carries an extra provincial tax. At a table with a server, a tip of 15 to 20 percent of the pre-tax amount is normal. At a counter, it is optional.

Is Nanaimo good for families?

Yes. The waterfront walks, the seawall, ice cream shops and the short ferry to Newcastle Island or Gabriola make a pleasant half-day, and Nanaimo bars suit children, though they contain nuts in some recipes. Ask before you buy if you have an allergy.

What else is worth doing near Nanaimo?

The Cowichan Valley to the south and the Comox Valley to the north both make good food day trips, and the road between them passes small towns with bakeries and cafés. Parksville and Qualicum Beach to the north have beaches and seasonal farm stands. If you have a car, a loop from Nanaimo through those areas makes an easy food-focused weekend.

How do you plan a Nanaimo bar tasting?

Pick three or four places on the map and share one bar between two people at each stop. A full bar is rich, and you will taste more variety with smaller portions. Buy a whole one to take home from your favourite and keep it cool in a container, since the custard layer softens in warm weather.

Eating your way across British Columbia? The Food in British Columbia page links every town we cover.

How do you compare Nanaimo bars fairly?

Every bakery's version has a different base, custard and chocolate, so a tasting works best with notes. In the Mosey app, rate each bar by name and write what stood out, for example "crisp base, soft custard, thin chocolate", and add a Bakery tag. Rating places that share a tag earns a badge for that kind of food, so a weekend of bars counts toward something.

Make a list called Nanaimo bar tasting with a section for classic squares and one for the odd versions, and send the invite link to the friend who is sharing the plate. Tag them under "Who were you with?" and they can add their own rating of the same bar, so the debate has evidence.

More guides to read next:

• Canadian restaurant words explained: licensed, patio, double-double and what the menu means
• Canadian Thanksgiving in Ontario and BC: eating out, harvest menus and farm days
• Restaurants open on Christmas Day in Toronto and Vancouver: how to find a table

More in the Canadian food guides and the ranked lists of places.

Before you leave the harbour, open the Mosey app and rate the bar you liked best.